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One must change their lifestyle to live with a fox; the foxes won't change theirs.
Diet. (keep in mind that the diet is variable; it is not necessarily at all for it to be identical as the one below. Below is just an example, there can be slight or major variations from a diet to another; some prefer to feed only raw, while others kibble - which is not encouraged/healthy: portions of raw or boiled meat are a must!).
Extra: Vulpes vulpes (red foxes) of light colour phases (with blue, green or pale grey eyes) require a higher dose of Vitamin D (helps with the storage of calcium) and of calcium itself, as they have difficulties when it comes to properly storing calcium in their system.
a) Newborn (0 days - 1 month): It is preferable to allow the kit to feed on his mother's milk for at least 10 days. The longer the kit will stay with its mother, the better it will be for his health and physical development. Bottle-feeding a fox, like any other animal, is no easy duty. Use a puppy milk replacement formula. With a 3-4 milliliter syringe or a small bottle specialized designed to bottle feed young animals. Let the kit lie on its belly, the natural feeding position. Bottle feeding fox kits requires a minimum of 6 feedings per day, however, it is recommended to feed them every 3 hours. I recommend Esbilac replacement or simply goat milk.
Often, kits under a week 1/2 old require stimulation in order to urinate or defecate. To stimulate the kit, dampen a soft tissue in water, and gently stroke the urino-genital area in a downwards motion while holding the kit in a semi-vertical position/almost upright (head upwards, of course). Place an old towel under it, to avoid a mess. It takes in general between 1-2 minutes for the kit to urinate or defecate. Make sure to do this every 2-3 hours, after each bottle feeding session.
To recapitulate:
- Leave the kit with its mom for at least 10 days.
- Use puppy milk replacement formula (Esbilac or goat milk).
- Feed with a kitten/puppy bottle or 3-4 ml syringe.
- Feed the kit minimally 6 times per day, but recommended to feed every 3 hours.
- Stimulate your kit to defecate/urinate after each bottle feeding session.
- Use a wet tissue to gently stroke the urino-genital area (1-2 mins) while holding the kit upwards, over a towel.
b) Kit (1 month - 5 months): Around- 3- 4 weeks old, fox kits start eating solid food. An all-meat diet is recommended at this age, to ensure the proper protein ingestion. Canned kitten/puppy food or raw chicken is good for them. Between 1 month old and 5 months old, a fox kit should be fed whenever it's hungry; they are in growth, they won't store any fat. All they eat goes into their development, to maintain them healthy and to cover their energy loss from playing all day. Along with the canned kitten/puppy food should be added raw chicken, turkey, beef, deer... Cooked fish is good too, but should not be used as a primary source of food. Chicken or rabbit are my main choices when it comes to feeding foxes this age. Also, 1-3 boiled/raw eggs per week are suggested too. The eggshell can be powdered and mixed with the fox's food to ensure the fox gets all the calcium it needs in its organism. One thing to avoid is to feed your fox kit only or primarily kibbles! Kibbles contain too much salt which would cause damage to their reins, not enough taurine (which is an amino-acid essential to foxes for the well-development of their eyes and heart system, without which they would end up dying) and lacks the other essential protein/fats/vitamins that foxes would need to maintain a healthy life. So do NOT give a kibble-only diet to your fox. Yes, kibbles can be fed to a fox (and should be given in portions when it is a kit, to avoid rickets) but raw meat & eggs should be included in big quantities in every portion of kibble the fox eats. Lastly, veggies and fruits are good for them as well, especially for the vitamins they provide. However, all the aliments that are not suitable for dogs, aren't good for foxes either. If you want to feed your fox veggies or fruits, use canned corn, green peas, carrots, boiled rice, etc. and for fruits, sliced apples, strawberries & any other type of berries, bananas and a few other fruits that are not dangerous for dogs.
To recapitulate:
- Primary source of food should be based on proteins.
- Canned kitten/puppy food + raw chicken/rabbit/turkey/deer/etc.
- 1 to 3 boiled/raw eggs per week (powder the eggshell and mix it to the fox's food for calcium).
- Cat, puppy or fox kibble in small portions (along the meat diet!)
- Veggies: canned corn, green peas, diced carrots, boiled rice, etc.
- Fruits: all kinds of berries, sliced apples, bananas, pears, etc.
- Feed your kit whenever it claims food.
- Feed some portions of kibble to avoid rickets during your fox's growth.
Extra: vitamin/taurine supplements can be purchased off internet or in pet shops, and added to the fox's diet. Beet pulp has no nutritional value, however, it helps the fox's intestines absorb more nutriments from the food it eats, so it is recommended to have some in their food (but not essential!).
To avoid:
- Fruits: grapes/raisins, avocados, tomatoes, pits & seeds from apples/cherries/peaches.
- Veggies: green eggplant, green potatoes, peppers, onions, garlic, chives.
- Nuts: Macadamia nuts, walnuts, ground almond, peanut shells.
- Substances & others: chocolate, caffeine, ethoxyquin, xylitol, BHA & BHT.
- Meat: pork, meat meal, poultry by-products.
Extra: Vulpes vulpes (red foxes) of light colour phases (with blue, green or pale grey eyes) require a higher dose of Vitamin D (helps with the storage of calcium) and of calcium itself, as they have difficulties when it comes to properly storing calcium in their system.
a) Newborn (0 days - 1 month): It is preferable to allow the kit to feed on his mother's milk for at least 10 days. The longer the kit will stay with its mother, the better it will be for his health and physical development. Bottle-feeding a fox, like any other animal, is no easy duty. Use a puppy milk replacement formula. With a 3-4 milliliter syringe or a small bottle specialized designed to bottle feed young animals. Let the kit lie on its belly, the natural feeding position. Bottle feeding fox kits requires a minimum of 6 feedings per day, however, it is recommended to feed them every 3 hours. I recommend Esbilac replacement or simply goat milk.
Often, kits under a week 1/2 old require stimulation in order to urinate or defecate. To stimulate the kit, dampen a soft tissue in water, and gently stroke the urino-genital area in a downwards motion while holding the kit in a semi-vertical position/almost upright (head upwards, of course). Place an old towel under it, to avoid a mess. It takes in general between 1-2 minutes for the kit to urinate or defecate. Make sure to do this every 2-3 hours, after each bottle feeding session.
To recapitulate:
- Leave the kit with its mom for at least 10 days.
- Use puppy milk replacement formula (Esbilac or goat milk).
- Feed with a kitten/puppy bottle or 3-4 ml syringe.
- Feed the kit minimally 6 times per day, but recommended to feed every 3 hours.
- Stimulate your kit to defecate/urinate after each bottle feeding session.
- Use a wet tissue to gently stroke the urino-genital area (1-2 mins) while holding the kit upwards, over a towel.
b) Kit (1 month - 5 months): Around- 3- 4 weeks old, fox kits start eating solid food. An all-meat diet is recommended at this age, to ensure the proper protein ingestion. Canned kitten/puppy food or raw chicken is good for them. Between 1 month old and 5 months old, a fox kit should be fed whenever it's hungry; they are in growth, they won't store any fat. All they eat goes into their development, to maintain them healthy and to cover their energy loss from playing all day. Along with the canned kitten/puppy food should be added raw chicken, turkey, beef, deer... Cooked fish is good too, but should not be used as a primary source of food. Chicken or rabbit are my main choices when it comes to feeding foxes this age. Also, 1-3 boiled/raw eggs per week are suggested too. The eggshell can be powdered and mixed with the fox's food to ensure the fox gets all the calcium it needs in its organism. One thing to avoid is to feed your fox kit only or primarily kibbles! Kibbles contain too much salt which would cause damage to their reins, not enough taurine (which is an amino-acid essential to foxes for the well-development of their eyes and heart system, without which they would end up dying) and lacks the other essential protein/fats/vitamins that foxes would need to maintain a healthy life. So do NOT give a kibble-only diet to your fox. Yes, kibbles can be fed to a fox (and should be given in portions when it is a kit, to avoid rickets) but raw meat & eggs should be included in big quantities in every portion of kibble the fox eats. Lastly, veggies and fruits are good for them as well, especially for the vitamins they provide. However, all the aliments that are not suitable for dogs, aren't good for foxes either. If you want to feed your fox veggies or fruits, use canned corn, green peas, carrots, boiled rice, etc. and for fruits, sliced apples, strawberries & any other type of berries, bananas and a few other fruits that are not dangerous for dogs.
To recapitulate:
- Primary source of food should be based on proteins.
- Canned kitten/puppy food + raw chicken/rabbit/turkey/deer/etc.
- 1 to 3 boiled/raw eggs per week (powder the eggshell and mix it to the fox's food for calcium).
- Cat, puppy or fox kibble in small portions (along the meat diet!)
- Veggies: canned corn, green peas, diced carrots, boiled rice, etc.
- Fruits: all kinds of berries, sliced apples, bananas, pears, etc.
- Feed your kit whenever it claims food.
- Feed some portions of kibble to avoid rickets during your fox's growth.
Extra: vitamin/taurine supplements can be purchased off internet or in pet shops, and added to the fox's diet. Beet pulp has no nutritional value, however, it helps the fox's intestines absorb more nutriments from the food it eats, so it is recommended to have some in their food (but not essential!).
To avoid:
- Fruits: grapes/raisins, avocados, tomatoes, pits & seeds from apples/cherries/peaches.
- Veggies: green eggplant, green potatoes, peppers, onions, garlic, chives.
- Nuts: Macadamia nuts, walnuts, ground almond, peanut shells.
- Substances & others: chocolate, caffeine, ethoxyquin, xylitol, BHA & BHT.
- Meat: pork, meat meal, poultry by-products.
Metabolic needs (3rd column) of red fox kits and arctic fox kits during growth, depending on age in months (1st column) & weight of the kit each month (2nd col).
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Nutritional needs, (quantities, 1st column) required for red foxes depending on their age (2nd and 3rd col.) and whether they are pregnant or lactating (4th & 5th col).
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Raw beef, Purina fox kibble and veggies.
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c) Adult (6 months - 7/8 years): * Almost the same as for the b) category * An all-meat diet is recommended, to ensure the proper protein ingestion. Canned cat/dog food can be used as part of the everyday diet, in small quantities as it contains a lot of fat. Mix it with big portions of raw meat (chicken, rabbit, turkey, beef, deer, etc.). Raw fish is good too, but should not be used as a primary source of food. Chicken or rabbit are my choices of predilection when it comes to feeding foxes. Also, 1-3 boiled/raw eggs per week are suggested too. The eggshell can be powdered and mixed with the fox's food to ensure the fox gets all the calcium it needs in its organism. Fox or cat kibbles (and I insist on the word ''cat'', as cats, just like foxes, require taurine in their diet to lead a healthy life while dogs don't, so their food naturally contains more of this amino-acid) can be given to your fox daily, as long as you supplement it with a lot of raw meat, veggies and canned food. Lastly, veggies and fruits are good for them as well, especially for the vitamins they provide. However, all the veggies and fruits that are not suitable for dogs, aren't suitable for foxes either. If you want to feed your fox veggies or fruits, use canned corn, green peas, carrots, boiled rice, etc. and for fruits, sliced apples, strawberries & any other type of berries, bananas and a few other fruits that are NOT listed on the ''bad food for dogs''. Starting from this age, you should not feed your fox whenever it claims food. Establish a daily routine and accustom your fox to it, so that it knows when it's feeding time and when it isn't. Feed your fox in the morning with a consisting breakfast, when you lunch and a little snack before bed. Small treats can be given during the day.
To recapitulate:
- Establish a feeding routine with your fox. Feed it 3 times per day, with occasional snacks or treats throughout the day (not essential).
- Primary source of food should be based on proteins.
- Canned cat/dog food + raw chicken/rabbit/turkey/deer/etc.
- 1 to 3 boiled/raw eggs per week (powder the eggshell and mix it to the fox's food for calcium).
- Fox or cat kibbles can be given in bigger portions (as long as it's supplemented with RAW meat, veggies, eggs, etc.)
- Veggies: canned corn, green peas, diced carrots, boiled rice, etc.
- Fruits: all kinds of berries, sliced apples, bananas, pears, etc.
Extra: vitamin/taurine supplements can be purchased off internet or in pet shops, and added to the fox's diet. Beet pulp has no nutritional value, however, it helps the fox's intestines absorb more nutriments from the food it eats, so it is recommended to have some in their food (but not essential!).
To avoid:
- Fruits: grapes/raisins, avocados, tomatoes, pits & seeds from apples/cherries/peaches.
- Veggies: green eggplant, green potatoes, peppers, onions, garlic, chives.
- Nuts: Macadamia nuts, walnuts, ground almond, peanut shells.
- Substances & others: chocolate, caffeine, ethoxyquin, xylitol, BHA & BHT.
Below are charts showing the quantities of vitamins adult red and arctic foxes, as well as growing red and arctic fox kits, need to strive and be healthy.
To recapitulate:
- Establish a feeding routine with your fox. Feed it 3 times per day, with occasional snacks or treats throughout the day (not essential).
- Primary source of food should be based on proteins.
- Canned cat/dog food + raw chicken/rabbit/turkey/deer/etc.
- 1 to 3 boiled/raw eggs per week (powder the eggshell and mix it to the fox's food for calcium).
- Fox or cat kibbles can be given in bigger portions (as long as it's supplemented with RAW meat, veggies, eggs, etc.)
- Veggies: canned corn, green peas, diced carrots, boiled rice, etc.
- Fruits: all kinds of berries, sliced apples, bananas, pears, etc.
Extra: vitamin/taurine supplements can be purchased off internet or in pet shops, and added to the fox's diet. Beet pulp has no nutritional value, however, it helps the fox's intestines absorb more nutriments from the food it eats, so it is recommended to have some in their food (but not essential!).
To avoid:
- Fruits: grapes/raisins, avocados, tomatoes, pits & seeds from apples/cherries/peaches.
- Veggies: green eggplant, green potatoes, peppers, onions, garlic, chives.
- Nuts: Macadamia nuts, walnuts, ground almond, peanut shells.
- Substances & others: chocolate, caffeine, ethoxyquin, xylitol, BHA & BHT.
Below are charts showing the quantities of vitamins adult red and arctic foxes, as well as growing red and arctic fox kits, need to strive and be healthy.
Vitamin needs of red foxes (adequate quantity 1st column, recommended quantity 2nd column, maximum quantity 3rd column). Do not go over the maximum quantity of vitamins suggested as it can have negative effects on your fox's health.
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Vitamin needs for red fox or arctic fox KITS during the growth stage (1st column, adequate quantity, 2nd column, recommended quantity and 3rd column, maximum quantity. Do not go over the maximum quantity of vitamins suggested as it can negatively impact your fox's health.
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d) Senior (7/8 years + ): * Almost the same as for the c) category * An all-meat diet is recommended, to ensure the proper protein ingestion. Canned cat food or canned dog food can be used as a primary source of food for its high protein levels, along with boiled chicken, rabbit, turkey, deer, beef, etc. Cooked fish is good too, but should not be used as a primary source of food. Chicken or rabbit are my choices of predilection when it comes to feeding foxes. Also, 1-4 boiled/raw eggs per week are suggested too. The eggshell can be powdered and mixed with the fox's food to ensure the fox gets all the calcium it needs in its organism. Avoid cat or dog kibbles for senior foxes, as they have a lot of salt and fat in their composition, which can badly affect the fox's health. Feed your senior fox more red meat, and make sure to have white or red meat in every portion of food your fox eats per day. Veggies and fruits, with the vitamins and minerals they provide, are more welcomed in your fox's diet than ever. Make sure to maintain a stable feeding routine with your fox.
To recapitulate:
- Feed 3 times per day, with many veggie/fruit snacks throughout the day.
- Primary source of food should be based on proteins.
- Red meat is very important at this age.
- Canned cat/dog food + boiled chicken/rabbit/turkey/deer/etc.
- 1 to 4 boiled/raw eggs per week (powder the eggshell and mix it to the fox's food for calcium).
- Cat kibbles must be avoided as much as possible due to the amount of salt and fat they contain.
- Veggies: canned corn, green peas, diced carrots, boiled rice, etc.
- Fruits: all kinds of berries, sliced apples, bananas, pears, etc.
- Veggies and fruits should be given in bigger quantities to ensure the senior fox gets enough vitamins and minerals.
Extra: vitamin/taurine supplements can be purchased off internet or in pet shops, and added to the fox's diet. Beet pulp has no nutritional value, however, it helps the fox's intestines absorb more nutriments from the food it eats, so it is recommended to have some in their food (but not essential!).
To avoid:
- Fruits: grapes/raisins, avocados, tomatoes, pits & seeds from apples/cherries/peaches.
- Veggies: green eggplant, green potatoes, peppers, onions, garlic, chives.
- Nuts: Macadamia nuts, walnuts, ground almond, peanut shells.
- Substances & others: chocolate, caffeine, ethoxyquin, xylitol, BHA & BHT.
* Diet can vary depending from owner to owner. However, it should be composed of 50% real meat in any scenario *
e) Nursing vixen.
Nursing vixens, as any other nursing animal, require a higher energy intake as their bodies are producing milk for their kits. Here are the metabolic needs of nursing vixens per number of kits she has, for a period of 10 days. They should, as well, be given more water as they will drink more often than a non-nursing female. A fox will generally drink 3 times more water than the quantity of food it eats, a nursing female will generally drink 4 times more water than the quantity of food she eats during the day.
To recapitulate:
- Feed 3 times per day, with many veggie/fruit snacks throughout the day.
- Primary source of food should be based on proteins.
- Red meat is very important at this age.
- Canned cat/dog food + boiled chicken/rabbit/turkey/deer/etc.
- 1 to 4 boiled/raw eggs per week (powder the eggshell and mix it to the fox's food for calcium).
- Cat kibbles must be avoided as much as possible due to the amount of salt and fat they contain.
- Veggies: canned corn, green peas, diced carrots, boiled rice, etc.
- Fruits: all kinds of berries, sliced apples, bananas, pears, etc.
- Veggies and fruits should be given in bigger quantities to ensure the senior fox gets enough vitamins and minerals.
Extra: vitamin/taurine supplements can be purchased off internet or in pet shops, and added to the fox's diet. Beet pulp has no nutritional value, however, it helps the fox's intestines absorb more nutriments from the food it eats, so it is recommended to have some in their food (but not essential!).
To avoid:
- Fruits: grapes/raisins, avocados, tomatoes, pits & seeds from apples/cherries/peaches.
- Veggies: green eggplant, green potatoes, peppers, onions, garlic, chives.
- Nuts: Macadamia nuts, walnuts, ground almond, peanut shells.
- Substances & others: chocolate, caffeine, ethoxyquin, xylitol, BHA & BHT.
* Diet can vary depending from owner to owner. However, it should be composed of 50% real meat in any scenario *
e) Nursing vixen.
Nursing vixens, as any other nursing animal, require a higher energy intake as their bodies are producing milk for their kits. Here are the metabolic needs of nursing vixens per number of kits she has, for a period of 10 days. They should, as well, be given more water as they will drink more often than a non-nursing female. A fox will generally drink 3 times more water than the quantity of food it eats, a nursing female will generally drink 4 times more water than the quantity of food she eats during the day.
Metabolic needs of lactating (nursing) vixens (Vulpes vulpes or Vulpes lagopus) per number of kits they have and that they nurse (2nd column).
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Metabolic needs of vixens (3rd & 4th column) per month (1st col.), depending on the weight (2nd col.) of the fox.
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Containment/housing.
a) Outdoors: If you, as an owner, want to have a good experience in fox ownership, care about your furniture, walls, floor and the money you put into your house and wish for your fox to live a fulfilled, happy life, you mustn't keep your fox indoors 24/7! Your fox will NEED an outdoor enclosure. If you keep a fox indoors all the time, the fox might be prone to develop anxiety issues and display a bad temper more frequently (usually, aggression issues are observed in foxes that are constantly kept indoors and taken out only for walks; they become frustrated and release their stress and frustration by destroying, chewing, screaming, biting, marking more than usual, etc). An outdoor enclosure should be completely closed, with a ceiling and a floor, as foxes are amazing climbers and even better diggers (a fox would easily dig 5-6 feet underground, if not more, and climb out on a wire fence of 2+ meters high with no difficulty). The wire with which the enclosure is made should be 16 gauge or any lower number, as foxes are also excellent chewers and their teeth would rapidly tear apart any wire that is weaker than 16 gauge. Like I previously said, foxes love to climb, so installing platforms, tree logs or having a double-level enclosure (with stairs to climb on the top level) is essential for a fox's entertainment. Sand or earth can be installed on the enclosure's ground to allow the fox to dig safely, as the wire fence installed as a ''floor'' under the sand/earth prevents the fox from digging its way out. 1-2 litter boxes should be placed in two separate but easily noticeable spots/corners of the kennel but it is not a must. A lot of foxes never use their litter boxes once they are in their outdoor enclosures. The fox should have toys, however, toys with small detachable pieces are to be avoided since the fox could end up swallowing them and chocking. A den is essential, to ensure shelter and coziness for the fox at night or during days with bad weather. During winter, wood chips or hay can be installed on the ground in the enclosure so that the fox doesn't step directly on the frozen ground. Foxes generally enjoy sleeping and playing in woods chips or hay as well. The den can be a wood box, a dog house, etc. as long as there is a bottom, a roof and proper isolation from cold, rain, etc. Make sure the enclosure is placed in an area where the fox can have some shade to protect itself from the summer sun, or to have sunlight when it wants to warm itself up. Make sure your fox always has water in the enclosure. In the morning, when foxes see an animal or a human come near the enclosure, they will sometimes start screaming out of excitement. The neighbors could be bothered, therefore I suggest taking the fox out of its enclosure if you have to go out in the morning or bring an animal (ex: a dog) outside. Don't leave your fox 24/7 in the enclosure if it's under 80 feet square; it will get bored eventually and this might reinforce undesirable behavior such as screaming and aggression tendencies. There should be spots where the fox can hide in the enclosure if they want to have some time alone and not be disturbed.
To recapitulate:
- Enclosure must be at least 80-100 square feet if the fox is kept full time outdoors (keeping a fox fully indoors is not recommended).
- Litter boxes can be placed in the enclosure but they aren't a must.
- Enclosure must have roof, incurved walls or plastic attached to the top to stop the fox from climbing out.
- Enclosure must have floor (either wire fence, a cement block or cement tiles).
- Wire fence must be 16 gauge or less.
- Sand/earth (about 1 feet of it) can be placed over the cement tiles/wire fence on the bottom. It is not necessary to cover up the enclosure's whole floor though.
- Platforms, tree logs, double-levels or anything else the fox can climb on safely is needed.
- Toys without small pieces must be accessible in the enclosure at all times.
- Water bowl is a must.
- Nest (wood box with top & floor, dog house, etc.) must be isolated from weather.
- A pillow/dog bed in the nest if necessary.
- Enclosure must be placed in area where there's shade, but also sunlight.
- Enclosure must have a weather-proof roof on top of the wire-fence roof, for protection.
- Make sure to have hiding spots in the enclosure.
- A fox kept indoors all the time will develop anxiety and aggression issues overtime that will become more and more severe as days go by.
- Woods chips/hay should be placed in the enclosure in winter, to prevent the fox from directly walking on the frozen ground.
a) Outdoors: If you, as an owner, want to have a good experience in fox ownership, care about your furniture, walls, floor and the money you put into your house and wish for your fox to live a fulfilled, happy life, you mustn't keep your fox indoors 24/7! Your fox will NEED an outdoor enclosure. If you keep a fox indoors all the time, the fox might be prone to develop anxiety issues and display a bad temper more frequently (usually, aggression issues are observed in foxes that are constantly kept indoors and taken out only for walks; they become frustrated and release their stress and frustration by destroying, chewing, screaming, biting, marking more than usual, etc). An outdoor enclosure should be completely closed, with a ceiling and a floor, as foxes are amazing climbers and even better diggers (a fox would easily dig 5-6 feet underground, if not more, and climb out on a wire fence of 2+ meters high with no difficulty). The wire with which the enclosure is made should be 16 gauge or any lower number, as foxes are also excellent chewers and their teeth would rapidly tear apart any wire that is weaker than 16 gauge. Like I previously said, foxes love to climb, so installing platforms, tree logs or having a double-level enclosure (with stairs to climb on the top level) is essential for a fox's entertainment. Sand or earth can be installed on the enclosure's ground to allow the fox to dig safely, as the wire fence installed as a ''floor'' under the sand/earth prevents the fox from digging its way out. 1-2 litter boxes should be placed in two separate but easily noticeable spots/corners of the kennel but it is not a must. A lot of foxes never use their litter boxes once they are in their outdoor enclosures. The fox should have toys, however, toys with small detachable pieces are to be avoided since the fox could end up swallowing them and chocking. A den is essential, to ensure shelter and coziness for the fox at night or during days with bad weather. During winter, wood chips or hay can be installed on the ground in the enclosure so that the fox doesn't step directly on the frozen ground. Foxes generally enjoy sleeping and playing in woods chips or hay as well. The den can be a wood box, a dog house, etc. as long as there is a bottom, a roof and proper isolation from cold, rain, etc. Make sure the enclosure is placed in an area where the fox can have some shade to protect itself from the summer sun, or to have sunlight when it wants to warm itself up. Make sure your fox always has water in the enclosure. In the morning, when foxes see an animal or a human come near the enclosure, they will sometimes start screaming out of excitement. The neighbors could be bothered, therefore I suggest taking the fox out of its enclosure if you have to go out in the morning or bring an animal (ex: a dog) outside. Don't leave your fox 24/7 in the enclosure if it's under 80 feet square; it will get bored eventually and this might reinforce undesirable behavior such as screaming and aggression tendencies. There should be spots where the fox can hide in the enclosure if they want to have some time alone and not be disturbed.
To recapitulate:
- Enclosure must be at least 80-100 square feet if the fox is kept full time outdoors (keeping a fox fully indoors is not recommended).
- Litter boxes can be placed in the enclosure but they aren't a must.
- Enclosure must have roof, incurved walls or plastic attached to the top to stop the fox from climbing out.
- Enclosure must have floor (either wire fence, a cement block or cement tiles).
- Wire fence must be 16 gauge or less.
- Sand/earth (about 1 feet of it) can be placed over the cement tiles/wire fence on the bottom. It is not necessary to cover up the enclosure's whole floor though.
- Platforms, tree logs, double-levels or anything else the fox can climb on safely is needed.
- Toys without small pieces must be accessible in the enclosure at all times.
- Water bowl is a must.
- Nest (wood box with top & floor, dog house, etc.) must be isolated from weather.
- A pillow/dog bed in the nest if necessary.
- Enclosure must be placed in area where there's shade, but also sunlight.
- Enclosure must have a weather-proof roof on top of the wire-fence roof, for protection.
- Make sure to have hiding spots in the enclosure.
- A fox kept indoors all the time will develop anxiety and aggression issues overtime that will become more and more severe as days go by.
- Woods chips/hay should be placed in the enclosure in winter, to prevent the fox from directly walking on the frozen ground.
Photo from Ciara Smith, of Fox Paw Exotics (Ohio).
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Miko in the 'Fox Tower', double-level enclosure.
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Photo of Ian Betsy Kuhn, for his small pet fennec fox.
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b) Indoors: Can foxes be kept indoors? Yes HOWEVER... there are many things you will have to change in order to make this possible. When it comes to V. vulpes (red fox) and V. lagopus (arctic fox), full time cohabitation with a human inside a house CAN be possible, but it is EXTREMELY difficult, NOT recommended AT ALL and requires a total lifestyle change for the human (remember, a fox won't change for you; you have to adapt to live with your fox). Foxes chew, like previously mentioned. When they are kits (1-6 months old) that is when their chewing is the worst, especially when they are teething. As they age and start reaching adulthood, they grow a little bit out of this habit. However, a fox is a fox, and you can't change what these animals naturally do: regardless of its age, the fox will still chew A LOT. That is why one must fox-proof the house if wanting to peacefully live with an indoor fox 24/7. Fox-proofing must include the following: all cables must be hidden or covered with cable plastic protectors. Papers, socks, books, articles of clothing, towels, bags, and other small things must never be left hanging around on the floor; the fox WILL chew and/or pee on them (and if they are socks, towels, napkins or bags, the fox might grab it, run away and hide it while trying to also tear it apart). Nothing must be left unorganized. Foxes can jump very high and climb like pros; nothing fragile, such as a vase, must be kept on a table. They will most likely end up knocking it down and breaking it. Foxes also dig; it's a natural behavior that cannot be trained out of them. It is something instinctual. The fox might try to dig in carpets, flower pots, couches, beds or even in the floor. To see how you can reduce the digging issues (without completely eliminating it though, as that is impossible, see below in the ''Training'' section, category c). If the house is big and has several levels, a litter box must be placed on each level (if the fox has access to every level). Keep in mind that foxes MARK, regardless whether they are males, females, intact neutered/spayed/desexed. They will mark by defecating and/or urinating on what they consider theirs, and they will do this several times a day, every day. When left alone unsupervised, the fox should be placed in a room or even in a big dog crate (with a litter box, toys and a water bowl). You may want to leave the radio/TV on with the volume turned up during the first 6-8 months of your fox's life to ensure that your fox is familiarized to all kind of noises. If kept indoors, make sure you don't give your fox plush toys; it will make it consider that any plushy object (blanket, pillow, kid toy, etc.) is a toy and the fox will chew on it and tear it apart. Foxes that are kept indoors 24/7 (except for walks) are known for being VERY prone to developing severe behavioural issues: they will release their frustration and stress of constantly being contained through bites, temper tantrums, more marking, more digging and more chewing. Keeping a fox constantly indoors reduces your chances at having a good relationship with it. On a side note, bear in mind that, if you keep your fox indoors, your house will stink like skunk/musky urine, no matter what you do.
To recapitulate:
- Any fox can be kept indoors, but you would have to change your whole lifestyle... And trust me, it's VERY hard - nearly IMPOSSIBLE, and NOT recommended.
- Cables must be hidden or covered in cable protector.
- Nothing must be left lying on the floor (ex: socks, bags, napkins, clothes, papers, etc.) or the fox will eventually chew on them.
- Glasses, dishes, fragile objects, etc. must always be stored, since foxes can jump and reach on tables.
- Avoid having carpets: fox will urinate/defecate on them (and the pungent smell will remain even after you wash them) or dig into them.
- When home alone, the fox must be kept in a separate room or crated. Toys, a water bowl and a litter box must be left with the fox.
- Foxes mark their territory and what they consider theirs on a DAILY BASIS, several times a day.
- If the house has more than one story, there must be 1 litter box per story.
- Never give an indoor fox plush toys; it will associate the plush as being a toy, and will chew on any other plush things that don't necessarily belong to it (blankets, pillows, toys for human kids, etc.)
- When home alone, leave the radio/TV on during the first 8 months of your fox's life.
- Your home will CONSTANTLY have a musky/skunk-like smell that WILL persist no matter how many cans of Febreeze you use or how many times you clean it.
- Foxes kept indoors all the time often develop major behavioural issues; they become very frustrated and let their frustration and stress out by developing aggression issues, biting, digging, chewing and marking EVEN MORE than what a typical, happy fox would do (because yes, all foxes will do these things).
c) Where to place the enclosure? The enclosure should be placed in an area with shade, but where sunlight isn't completely inexistent either. It shouldn't be close to the neighbours; the sounds, smell or just the proximity of the fox might disturb them. It should remain as hidden as possible to avoid having a curious passerby trespassing to see your fox or an ill-intentionned person sneaking in to release your fox or poison it.
d) Controlling the smell: It isn't a secret; the urine and feces of foxes stink to high heavens! During summer, when it's hot and humid outside, the smell will be a hundred times worse. You must clean the enclosure daily; pick up the feces with dog bags and throw them away. As for the urine, hosing it down is a commonly used technique that is quite efficient. You may also scrape the concrete/cement blocks, if that is what lays on the ground of your fox's enclosure, with a disinfectant water + vinegar + soap solution, then hose it down with clean water. Cat litters' smell control products (such as Arm & Hammer Cat Litter and Nature's Miracle Odour) are also useful to reduce and practically eliminate the smell (once the enclosure is cleaned), however, their camouflaging effect does not last very long. The very best solution, however, would be to have a draining system built in the enclosure that connects to your house's draining system. If you have the draining system built in, all you need to do is to hose down the pee, scrape off a bit and voila! the smell is gone. My fox has learned to pee directly in the drain hole when he's in the enclosure; I only need to pick up his feces now.
Additional information: It seems cherries have the capacity of considerably reducing the fox's urine smell. Pits are not good for foxes, therefore make sure you carefully pit the cherries prior to mixing them to your fox's food.
e) Safety measures: have a lock on your enclosure whenever you aren't home. If needed, you can also install an alarm system with a sensory detector. AR extremists have been known to target exotic animal owners in the past; they might want to release your fox as they believe no animal should be kept in captivity. A captive-bred, human raised fox will NOT be able to survive in the wild on its own. They do not know how to hunt, be cautious for predators and aren't generally wary of humans; they could easily encounter a hunter and lose their skin. Keeping low-profile and not giving out too much information about yourself and your fox is also a very good way to ensure you, but especially your fur baby, remain safe.
To recapitulate:
- Any fox can be kept indoors, but you would have to change your whole lifestyle... And trust me, it's VERY hard - nearly IMPOSSIBLE, and NOT recommended.
- Cables must be hidden or covered in cable protector.
- Nothing must be left lying on the floor (ex: socks, bags, napkins, clothes, papers, etc.) or the fox will eventually chew on them.
- Glasses, dishes, fragile objects, etc. must always be stored, since foxes can jump and reach on tables.
- Avoid having carpets: fox will urinate/defecate on them (and the pungent smell will remain even after you wash them) or dig into them.
- When home alone, the fox must be kept in a separate room or crated. Toys, a water bowl and a litter box must be left with the fox.
- Foxes mark their territory and what they consider theirs on a DAILY BASIS, several times a day.
- If the house has more than one story, there must be 1 litter box per story.
- Never give an indoor fox plush toys; it will associate the plush as being a toy, and will chew on any other plush things that don't necessarily belong to it (blankets, pillows, toys for human kids, etc.)
- When home alone, leave the radio/TV on during the first 8 months of your fox's life.
- Your home will CONSTANTLY have a musky/skunk-like smell that WILL persist no matter how many cans of Febreeze you use or how many times you clean it.
- Foxes kept indoors all the time often develop major behavioural issues; they become very frustrated and let their frustration and stress out by developing aggression issues, biting, digging, chewing and marking EVEN MORE than what a typical, happy fox would do (because yes, all foxes will do these things).
c) Where to place the enclosure? The enclosure should be placed in an area with shade, but where sunlight isn't completely inexistent either. It shouldn't be close to the neighbours; the sounds, smell or just the proximity of the fox might disturb them. It should remain as hidden as possible to avoid having a curious passerby trespassing to see your fox or an ill-intentionned person sneaking in to release your fox or poison it.
d) Controlling the smell: It isn't a secret; the urine and feces of foxes stink to high heavens! During summer, when it's hot and humid outside, the smell will be a hundred times worse. You must clean the enclosure daily; pick up the feces with dog bags and throw them away. As for the urine, hosing it down is a commonly used technique that is quite efficient. You may also scrape the concrete/cement blocks, if that is what lays on the ground of your fox's enclosure, with a disinfectant water + vinegar + soap solution, then hose it down with clean water. Cat litters' smell control products (such as Arm & Hammer Cat Litter and Nature's Miracle Odour) are also useful to reduce and practically eliminate the smell (once the enclosure is cleaned), however, their camouflaging effect does not last very long. The very best solution, however, would be to have a draining system built in the enclosure that connects to your house's draining system. If you have the draining system built in, all you need to do is to hose down the pee, scrape off a bit and voila! the smell is gone. My fox has learned to pee directly in the drain hole when he's in the enclosure; I only need to pick up his feces now.
Additional information: It seems cherries have the capacity of considerably reducing the fox's urine smell. Pits are not good for foxes, therefore make sure you carefully pit the cherries prior to mixing them to your fox's food.
e) Safety measures: have a lock on your enclosure whenever you aren't home. If needed, you can also install an alarm system with a sensory detector. AR extremists have been known to target exotic animal owners in the past; they might want to release your fox as they believe no animal should be kept in captivity. A captive-bred, human raised fox will NOT be able to survive in the wild on its own. They do not know how to hunt, be cautious for predators and aren't generally wary of humans; they could easily encounter a hunter and lose their skin. Keeping low-profile and not giving out too much information about yourself and your fox is also a very good way to ensure you, but especially your fur baby, remain safe.
Beauty care.
a) Nail clipping: Foxes' claws are like dogs' claws; they aren't retractable. Their claws stick out like that of dogs, but they are sharper. Unlike felines, foxes don't use their nails to purposely scratch you. However, when you pick a fox up its claws will most likely hurt you as the fox tries to find a grip to hold onto you. Foxes also use their claws to dig which is why I recommend to trim their nails if they are indoor pets. To trim a fox's nails, use a cat nail trimmer. Hold the fox in your lap with a hand under it (that holds its paw as well). Use your other hand to trim the nails, cutting only the clear part without getting too close to the pink, where the veins start. If one does not want to trim a fox's nails, there is an other alternative which is Soft Paws. Soft Paws are plastic-designed nail covers that come in different sizes, to fit different sizes and species of animals. They are placed on the animals claws with the help of glue, and held in place for 30 seconds - 1 min before it glues itself. Soft caps usually hold for about 2 weeks, then they fall, since the animal's nails keep growing underneath. These covers come in different colors too!
In the unfortunate event that your fox does not tolerate at all to have its claws trimmed, consider sedating it yearly to for a proper trimming.
Please note it is extremely important to have your fox's nails trimmed on a regular basis. Overgrown claws can be painful, cause unnecessary pressure on joints and lead to an early case of arthritis. The nerve in the fox's claws will also get longer if they aren't regularly trimmed, which will make it impossible to shorten the claws afterwards. The claws should be trimmed twice a month on average, for a red fox. Arctic fox claws are known to grow longer and at a faster rate, therefore it is extremely important to keep up with their trimming. Having a secure enclosure (with dig guards) where the fox can dig is a plus; digging is a natural way for them to use their nails and prevent them from overgrowing.
7 tips for nail clipping.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes have dog-like claws; non retractable.
- Foxes don't purposely scratch unlike cats.
- They use their claws to find a grip and dig, dig, dig.
- Cat nail trimmers are perfect to trim their nails.
- Place the fox on your lap.
- Place one hand under your fox's belly.
- Hold your fox's paw with that same hand.
- Trim the nails with the other hand.
- Never cut too close to the pink area; only cut the clear zone of the nail.
- Second choice: SOFT PAWS.
- Plastic nail covers, fixed with glue (must be held 30 seconds - 1 minute to stick on the fox's nail).
- Lasts about 2 weeks, the time the animal's claws grow long again.
- Come in different colours and size.
- If fox does not tolerate nail trimming, sedate it yearly to do the procedure safely.
a) Nail clipping: Foxes' claws are like dogs' claws; they aren't retractable. Their claws stick out like that of dogs, but they are sharper. Unlike felines, foxes don't use their nails to purposely scratch you. However, when you pick a fox up its claws will most likely hurt you as the fox tries to find a grip to hold onto you. Foxes also use their claws to dig which is why I recommend to trim their nails if they are indoor pets. To trim a fox's nails, use a cat nail trimmer. Hold the fox in your lap with a hand under it (that holds its paw as well). Use your other hand to trim the nails, cutting only the clear part without getting too close to the pink, where the veins start. If one does not want to trim a fox's nails, there is an other alternative which is Soft Paws. Soft Paws are plastic-designed nail covers that come in different sizes, to fit different sizes and species of animals. They are placed on the animals claws with the help of glue, and held in place for 30 seconds - 1 min before it glues itself. Soft caps usually hold for about 2 weeks, then they fall, since the animal's nails keep growing underneath. These covers come in different colors too!
In the unfortunate event that your fox does not tolerate at all to have its claws trimmed, consider sedating it yearly to for a proper trimming.
Please note it is extremely important to have your fox's nails trimmed on a regular basis. Overgrown claws can be painful, cause unnecessary pressure on joints and lead to an early case of arthritis. The nerve in the fox's claws will also get longer if they aren't regularly trimmed, which will make it impossible to shorten the claws afterwards. The claws should be trimmed twice a month on average, for a red fox. Arctic fox claws are known to grow longer and at a faster rate, therefore it is extremely important to keep up with their trimming. Having a secure enclosure (with dig guards) where the fox can dig is a plus; digging is a natural way for them to use their nails and prevent them from overgrowing.
7 tips for nail clipping.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes have dog-like claws; non retractable.
- Foxes don't purposely scratch unlike cats.
- They use their claws to find a grip and dig, dig, dig.
- Cat nail trimmers are perfect to trim their nails.
- Place the fox on your lap.
- Place one hand under your fox's belly.
- Hold your fox's paw with that same hand.
- Trim the nails with the other hand.
- Never cut too close to the pink area; only cut the clear zone of the nail.
- Second choice: SOFT PAWS.
- Plastic nail covers, fixed with glue (must be held 30 seconds - 1 minute to stick on the fox's nail).
- Lasts about 2 weeks, the time the animal's claws grow long again.
- Come in different colours and size.
- If fox does not tolerate nail trimming, sedate it yearly to do the procedure safely.
Billy the blue arctic fox having his claws trimmed by myself with the help of Lynne Goudreau.
b) Brushing: Foxes shed massively on a daily basis. Their hair is relatively easy to clean; it is long and isn't coarse. However, if you want a fox, be prepared to have some fox hair everyday in your breakfast, lunch and supper. In spring, they start shedding even more; it's the time in which they're losing their long winter coat. This happens between the end of April and for the very late ones, the end of August. Blowing off their whole winter coat takes generally about 4-8 weeks. Their hair detaches itself in big clumps which are easy to remove. Brushing 10-20 minutes per day during this period will help remove the whole winter coat faster. If your fox is tolerant and you are patient enough, you can also pluck out the clumps that can easily be grabbed. Their fur shed can be kept and can be used for many different purposes (make a shirt out of it, stuff a pillow with it, needle felting, etc.). If there is matting, you can try gently pulling on it. If it does not work, sedating the fox while removing the hair mats is the way to go.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes shed massively on a daily basis.
- Foxes blow out their whole winter coat once a year, in spring/summer.
- Shedding season: between end of April and end of August (for the late ones).
- Takes about 4-8 weeks to blow entirely blow off their winter coat.
- Brushing is required, 10-20 minutes per day during this period.
- Hair falls out in big clumps; can also be plucked out.
- If there are hair mats, sedate the fox to remove them if gently pulling on them does not work.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes shed massively on a daily basis.
- Foxes blow out their whole winter coat once a year, in spring/summer.
- Shedding season: between end of April and end of August (for the late ones).
- Takes about 4-8 weeks to blow entirely blow off their winter coat.
- Brushing is required, 10-20 minutes per day during this period.
- Hair falls out in big clumps; can also be plucked out.
- If there are hair mats, sedate the fox to remove them if gently pulling on them does not work.
Below, an example of winter coat VS summer coat difference. Pictures by myself of Miko the fox.
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c) Bathing: Despite their natural musky smell, foxes are clean animals that carefully groom themselves somewhat like cats and other felines do. They can sometimes be seen cleaning themselves for a quarter of an hour, sometimes even more! Bathing a fox is not something that should be done too often as it can lead to major skin irritation. Fox kits are pretty messy; they walk in their own feces and urine, sleep in it, etc. Bathing a kit should not be done more than once a week, but recommended to be done only twice per month as an overall. As they mature, they generally stop sleeping in their own urine and excrements. Grooming them (brushing) removes the dirt that might get stuck in their fur. Other than that, bathing is not a real necessity. Make sure to use a pet friendly shampoo.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are clean animals.
- They usually clean themselves, for 15+ mins.
- Too many baths lead to eczema and skin irritations.
- Use pet shampoo to avoid problems mentioned above.
- Kits are messy and walk in their own urine/feces.
- Kits should be bathed maximum 3-4 times a month. Preferable only 1-2 times per month.
- Adults don't require more than 1-2 bath sessions per month, if necessary.
- Brushing an adult fox will remove dirt from its fur without the need of a bath.
- Summertime: 2 baths per months if necessary.
- Wintertime: no baths truly necessary (unless if really necessary, i.e if the fox rolled in urine).
d) Ear cleaning: Foxes don't generally need to have their ears cleaned, but when you notice that they are in need of a good cleaning, simply use a dry Q-tip. With it, apply a gentle pressure on the inside of the ear (do NOT go deep!) and pull upwards. Do not make a habit out of cleaning your fox's ears; they do not need to be frequently cleaned. If they are cleaned too often, irritations or even infections can appear.
e) To shave or not to shave? Because of their undercoat, foxes should not be shaved unless it is requested for a veterinary procedure and thus, necessary. If you live in an area where there never is snow and you have a red or arctic fox, you could trim the fox's fur (only trim, not shave) if you notice it might be suffering from the heat. A ventilation system in their enclosure or access to the house during warmer seasons can be other measures taken to prevent your fox to suffer from a heat stroke.
f) Dry skin and matted fur: Several things can cause these two issues; weather changes - particularly a cold, dry weather, hormonal changes occurring during breeding season, a food allergy or a mild staff infection. Dry skin will make them itch. The fox will start scratching itself incessantly and might even lose fur due to the abnormal amount and high intensity of the scratching. There will be noticeable dandruff in the fur, near the skin, and the skin itself might have a few scabs (resulting from the incessant scratching) and appear to be a little more reddish than usual. Coconut oil and/or fish oil, in such cases, work miracles on rehydrating the skin and giving the fur a shiny, healthy look - in the event that what's causing the dry skin and matted fur is either the weather, hormonal changes or a food allergy. While the skin is recovering, make sure you trim your fox's claws to prevent it from potentially leaving more wounds on its own skin. In my case, I bought an animal sweater from the local pet shop and had my fox wear it at all times when he was indoors. That way, he was unable to have direct contact between his skin and his claws when he was trying to scratch himself. In case of hormonal changes, it can be possible for the fox to lose patches of fur in some areas.
If you suspect it might be an allergy, remove the protein source from the fox's meals and give it its dose of protein from another source (ex: your fox was fed on chicken; cut the chicken and give it fish/hare/elk... instead). Keep this change for about 6 weeks; if the fox's skin seems to be on the way to recovery after those 6 weeks of change, it means it was caused by an allergy. Allergies can be developed overtime; if your fox ate chicken its whole life, doesn't necessarily mean it can't became allergic to it one day.
If it's a mild staff infection, a vet checkup might be necessary. The vet will then give you a prescription of antibiotics, Cephelexin being generally the one recommended to use by most.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are clean animals.
- They usually clean themselves, for 15+ mins.
- Too many baths lead to eczema and skin irritations.
- Use pet shampoo to avoid problems mentioned above.
- Kits are messy and walk in their own urine/feces.
- Kits should be bathed maximum 3-4 times a month. Preferable only 1-2 times per month.
- Adults don't require more than 1-2 bath sessions per month, if necessary.
- Brushing an adult fox will remove dirt from its fur without the need of a bath.
- Summertime: 2 baths per months if necessary.
- Wintertime: no baths truly necessary (unless if really necessary, i.e if the fox rolled in urine).
d) Ear cleaning: Foxes don't generally need to have their ears cleaned, but when you notice that they are in need of a good cleaning, simply use a dry Q-tip. With it, apply a gentle pressure on the inside of the ear (do NOT go deep!) and pull upwards. Do not make a habit out of cleaning your fox's ears; they do not need to be frequently cleaned. If they are cleaned too often, irritations or even infections can appear.
e) To shave or not to shave? Because of their undercoat, foxes should not be shaved unless it is requested for a veterinary procedure and thus, necessary. If you live in an area where there never is snow and you have a red or arctic fox, you could trim the fox's fur (only trim, not shave) if you notice it might be suffering from the heat. A ventilation system in their enclosure or access to the house during warmer seasons can be other measures taken to prevent your fox to suffer from a heat stroke.
f) Dry skin and matted fur: Several things can cause these two issues; weather changes - particularly a cold, dry weather, hormonal changes occurring during breeding season, a food allergy or a mild staff infection. Dry skin will make them itch. The fox will start scratching itself incessantly and might even lose fur due to the abnormal amount and high intensity of the scratching. There will be noticeable dandruff in the fur, near the skin, and the skin itself might have a few scabs (resulting from the incessant scratching) and appear to be a little more reddish than usual. Coconut oil and/or fish oil, in such cases, work miracles on rehydrating the skin and giving the fur a shiny, healthy look - in the event that what's causing the dry skin and matted fur is either the weather, hormonal changes or a food allergy. While the skin is recovering, make sure you trim your fox's claws to prevent it from potentially leaving more wounds on its own skin. In my case, I bought an animal sweater from the local pet shop and had my fox wear it at all times when he was indoors. That way, he was unable to have direct contact between his skin and his claws when he was trying to scratch himself. In case of hormonal changes, it can be possible for the fox to lose patches of fur in some areas.
If you suspect it might be an allergy, remove the protein source from the fox's meals and give it its dose of protein from another source (ex: your fox was fed on chicken; cut the chicken and give it fish/hare/elk... instead). Keep this change for about 6 weeks; if the fox's skin seems to be on the way to recovery after those 6 weeks of change, it means it was caused by an allergy. Allergies can be developed overtime; if your fox ate chicken its whole life, doesn't necessarily mean it can't became allergic to it one day.
If it's a mild staff infection, a vet checkup might be necessary. The vet will then give you a prescription of antibiotics, Cephelexin being generally the one recommended to use by most.
Training. (There can be more than one way to train your fox. The advice I share on here is mainly what has worked for me with my fox and the 20 foxes I had the pleasure and privilege of taking care of for variable periods of time, as well as what has been found to be working out for the majority of fox owners. Like I said earlier, there is more than one way to train a fox for a certain thing or out of a certain habit. I hope the following information will be useful).
a) Litter box: Foxes are incredibly smart and usually learn very quickly how to use the litter box. However, V. vulpes and V. lagopus can never be 100% litter trained. They will always mark. Foxes use their feces and urine to mark their territory as well as things that they consider theirs (even if they don't actually belong to them). This can be a cellphone, their food bowl, a toy, etc. Most foxes also pee of excitement when they see their owner or an animal. Overall, foxes will do their business about 30-80% of the time in the litter box. Each fox is an individual; some will never use the litter box, others will practically always use it. It's really a hit and miss with foxes and litter boxes. However, no matter what, your fox WILL mark (pee/defecate) on a DAILY basis, several times a day. Some foxes are very picky; if their litter box is not cleaned a couple of times a day, they will stop using it, and will 'do their business' right next to it. If the fox has a ''miss'', clean the spot with a vinegar solution to ensure that the smell is completely removed (or at least, as much as possible). This has to be done to avoid having the fox return in that spot and decide that the specific emplacement is the new "litter box". The litter must be typical agglomerating cat litter. The box must be 2-3 times bigger than a typical cat litter box, as foxes are way bigger than cats when they're adults. When you get the fox kit, place it in a small dog crate, with a litter fox, food/water bowl and a few toys. The fox might directly go into the litter box. If so, encourage it and slowly leave the fox in a bigger area with the box, until it is trained enough to wander in the whole house and return in the litter box when needed. If the fox pees or defecates next to the litter box, in the dog crate, scoop the feces and place them back in the litter box, then clean the urine. The fox will follow the smell of its own feces and use the litter box next time it will feel the need to 'do its business' again.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are fast learners when it comes to litter training.
- On average they are 30-80% litter trained, depending on the fox.
- Litter box must be 2-3 times bigger than a cat's box.
- Use agglomerating cat litter.
- Clean every day; foxes are picky on cleanliness.
- Foxes pee and defecate to mark everyday, several times a day.
- Some foxes, not all though, pee of excitement when they see their owner or an animal they like.
- To litter train, put the fox kit in a dog crate with the litter box, food and water bowl and toys.
- If the fox kit pees/defecates in the box, you can slowly expand its space to train it to continue to use the litter box even in bigger areas.
- If the fox kit pees/defecates elsewhere, scoop the feces and place them in the litter box. The kit will follow the smell and start using the box.
a-II) Puppy pads.
It is fairly common for foxes to think of their litter box as a "play ground/digging spot" instead of their "bathroom". Many foxes, especially young kits, prefer digging in their litters and throwing litter sand all over the place. If that is the case with your fox, I recommend trying to switch for puppy pads. I've only personally ever trained 3 foxes to go on the puppy pads; all the others were relatively good to go with the litter box. With all 3 foxes, I succeeded in having them go potty on the pads by placing the fox in the room where were the puppy pads and putting the fox's food and water dishes in the middle of the puppy pads. Foxes have a natural, instinctive habit of marking their food dishes. They would go mark around the dishes, directly onto the puppy pads and from then on, just started getting the habit of always doing their "business" on them. For young kits, one pad is big enough; for adult red or arctic foxes, I suggest placing 4 pads in such a way that they, together, create the shape of a square. Because this training method is based on a natural instinct of the fox (food marking), it can be taught to any fox - regardless of its age, level of tameness or gender (at least, in my own experience - the first was an extremely tame 2 years old male fox, the second was an 8 year old partially tame vixen and the third was a wild one year old male fox. After just 2-4 days, all three were 100% pad trained).
Please note that, although I was 100% successful in pad training 3 foxes of the V. vulpes species, it does not mean that it will work for all of them. I tried pad training an arctic fox but drastically failed; it does not mean that it is, however, impossible to pad train arctic foxes. Some foxes tend to just want to play or tear apart their pads. I had that issue and fixed it by purchasing puppy pads with glue underneath, that stick themselves to the ground where you want them placed.
To recapitulate:
- Many foxes tend to use their litter boxes as a digging spot, a playground, which makes it inconvenient and useless for its real purpose.
- Puppy pads can be an easy option!
- In my experience, foxes of any age, level of tameness and gender can learn to properly use the puppy pad since it is based on a natural behaviour of the fox.
- For kits: 1 pad, for teenagers and adults: 4 pads placed together to form a big square.
- Don't change the location of the pads too often. Settle on a place that you will continue to use for as long as you can.
- Put the fox's food and water dishes on the puppy pads. The fox will go mark them, therefore do its business on the puppy pads and will eventually catch on to it.
- If your fox wants to tear apart the pads, you may want to consider getting puppy pads with glue underneath them, in order to have them sticked to the floor.
Note: "Male wraps" are a good way to prevent male foxes from urinating in undesired areas, or even to prevent marking. It wraps itself around the waist, and only needs to be cleaned once a day. They can be purchased in pet shops.
b) Nipping/biting: Foxes nip and bite when they play. Their teeth are the most commonly used part of their body when it comes to playtime. Their sharp teeth are also used to bite when feeling scared or threatened. When threatened, foxes won't bite and tore the skin apart like dogs would do when they attack. A fox will only strike fast, bite, and then go back to the hiding spot. Sometimes, a fox will strike and not let go, if feeling very threatened or if wanting something you have. A fox's teeth are 3-4 times the size of those of a fully grown cat (Felis catus familiaris). To prevent stress-caused biting, make sure you avoid bringing your fox in stressful environments or to make any fast, unexpected movements towards it. Also, never corner your fox! To prevent play-biting, never let the fox play-bite on your fingers while playing. Always use a toy instead of your own fingers, that way the fox will get used to nip on its toy. If the fox continues to play-bite nevertheless, firmly say 'NO' when it does so, tap with a finger on its nose and stop playing. If the problem still persists, use a vinegar solution to spray.
On another note, the vast majority of foxes will go through a phase called October Crazies (it only happens during their first year of life, between 5 and 8 months of age). It's the time in a kit's life when the parents would push it out of the den, so it can find its own territory. At the same time, several hormones kick in to prepare the foxes for a life in solo where they must fend for themselves and face many dangers. When that time hits the fox, it will turn skittish, will start nipping you if you try to catch it, will run away from you and avoid most contact with you or other humans, will be more destructive, and might even stop using the litter box. This phase lasts anywhere between 2 weeks to 2 months and has different degrees depending on the fox (certain foxes go absolutely crazy while others, you could hardly even tell they are in the October Crazies phase). Regardless, you should never hit your fox if it does something bad during this period (you should never hit your fox, nor any other animal for that matter, regardless of the situation). Try to remain positive and continue going over the same routine you had with your fox before it entered the October Crazies phase. Things will mellow down and your fox will soon be back to its normal self! Don't forget, foxes will, in most cases, give warnings (gekkering, peeing, whining, ears back) before actually biting you. Listen to their body language and respect them.
To recapitulate:
- Fox teeth are 3-5 times bigger than an adult cat's.
- They often play-bite.
- Fox don't attack viciously; they strike, bite and hide somewhere safe if they feel threatened.
- Never corner a fox!
- Sometimes, foxes will bite and not let go, if feeling very threatened or if wanting something you have (food, toy).
- To prevent stress-caused bites, never make unexpected and fast moves towards your fox while making loud sounds.
- To dissuade play-biting, use a toy to play with your fox instead of your own hand.
- If biting persists, firmly say 'NO' and tap on the fox's nose with one finger.
- If even after this, the undesirable behavior still persists, use a vinegar solution to spray on the fox's face whenever it play-bites.
- October Crazies: seasonal aggression during a kit's first year.
- Lasts between 2 weeks to 2 months.
- Fox turns skittish, nips, stops using the litter box, avoids you, turns aggressive.
- Never hit your fox, regardless of what it does!
- Keep going over the same routine you had with your fox before the October Crazies. Your fox will soon be back to its normal self!
c) Leash & harness: Foxes have a lot of energy to consume, more than the average household dog. This is why leash and harness training is a must. Taking your fox out for walks and/or hikes in the woods ensures your fox gets enough physical activity every day and rightly spends its stocked energy. H harnesses and collars with the "belt system" are the most recommended and safest. Once an adult fox is on the loose, chances are it will never return to you, unless you're very lucky. It is also recommended for the leash to have a metal wire inside of it, to prevent the fox from chewing through it. Never leave a fox off-leash outdoors, unless it's in your backyard, and unless your backyard is secure enough (at least 6ft tall fence, completely fenced, no space underneath the fence, etc.) Get your fox used to wear a cat harness from a very young age. Leash and harness training should start as soon as possible to make sure your fox tolerates the leash and harness as it grows older. Associate the leash with something positive; a favourite treat, etc. Leave the harness on your kit for several hours each day, then start taking your fox out once it tolerates the harness/leash. Having a dog is a plus, as foxes tend to follow well-behaved dogs on leash outdoors. If you do not have a dog for your fox to follow, start by walking very slowly, let your fox walk by itself, gently call your fox when it stops without pulling too much as it may stress the fox. Whenever the fox walks well behind, next or in front of you, make sure to give it a treat. Take your fox out on a leash as often as you can when it is young, both to socialize it with other strangers and to leash-train it!
To recapitulate:
- Foxes need to consume their high energy levels.
- H harness + collars with belt-like systems are the safest.
- Always keep your fox leashed outdoors.
- You can only let your fox off-leash outdoors if your yard is completely fenced, has no space under the fence and an at least 6 feet tall fence.
- The fox's leash should preferably have a metal wire inside of it, to prevent the fox from chewing on it and escaping.
- Leave your fox kit with a harness on for several hours each day to get it used to it.
- Once the kit is okay with the harness/leash on, take it out for walks.
- Walk calmly and whenever the kit stops, gently call it while handing over a treat.
- If you have a dog that walks well on leashes, take it out on walks at the same time as the fox; foxes tend to follow dogs when they are on leash outside.
- Take your kit out on a leash and with a harness/collar as much as possible. Start EARLY! The earliest, the best, to make sure your fox remains tolerant of the leash as it grows older.
- Associate the leash/harness with something positive; a treat, for example.
d) Undesirable digging: Foxes are born diggers. They will dig to play, to hunt, to hide their food and to build their den, which is used as a nest for the kits and a home for the adults. In captivity, foxes will dig no matter what punishment methods one might use. It's their natural instinct to do so, and breaking instincts is impossible. If you don't want the fox to dig in flower/plant pots or in expensive couches or carpets, just don't let the fox in the same room as those objects. If you're in the same room with the fox when it starts digging, firmly and loudly shout 'NO'. If the digging persists, use a vinegar solution to spray on the fox's face. A pet repellent (similar to the one used to prevent cats from scratching furniture) can be used, though its effectiveness is not 100% verified with foxes.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are naturally great diggers. There is no way to stop a fox from digging, ever. However, there are ways to dissuade the fox to dig in your presence.
- Don't let the fox in the same room where there are expensive couches, flower pots, or any other thing susceptible to be dug into by the fox.
- If the fox digs indoors, shout 'NO'.
- If digging persists, spray vinegar solution on the fox's face while saying 'NO'.
- If nothing above works to dissuade the fox from digging, use pet repellent and spray it on what you want to protect from the fox. The effectiveness of pet repellent on foxes is still unknown though.
a) Litter box: Foxes are incredibly smart and usually learn very quickly how to use the litter box. However, V. vulpes and V. lagopus can never be 100% litter trained. They will always mark. Foxes use their feces and urine to mark their territory as well as things that they consider theirs (even if they don't actually belong to them). This can be a cellphone, their food bowl, a toy, etc. Most foxes also pee of excitement when they see their owner or an animal. Overall, foxes will do their business about 30-80% of the time in the litter box. Each fox is an individual; some will never use the litter box, others will practically always use it. It's really a hit and miss with foxes and litter boxes. However, no matter what, your fox WILL mark (pee/defecate) on a DAILY basis, several times a day. Some foxes are very picky; if their litter box is not cleaned a couple of times a day, they will stop using it, and will 'do their business' right next to it. If the fox has a ''miss'', clean the spot with a vinegar solution to ensure that the smell is completely removed (or at least, as much as possible). This has to be done to avoid having the fox return in that spot and decide that the specific emplacement is the new "litter box". The litter must be typical agglomerating cat litter. The box must be 2-3 times bigger than a typical cat litter box, as foxes are way bigger than cats when they're adults. When you get the fox kit, place it in a small dog crate, with a litter fox, food/water bowl and a few toys. The fox might directly go into the litter box. If so, encourage it and slowly leave the fox in a bigger area with the box, until it is trained enough to wander in the whole house and return in the litter box when needed. If the fox pees or defecates next to the litter box, in the dog crate, scoop the feces and place them back in the litter box, then clean the urine. The fox will follow the smell of its own feces and use the litter box next time it will feel the need to 'do its business' again.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are fast learners when it comes to litter training.
- On average they are 30-80% litter trained, depending on the fox.
- Litter box must be 2-3 times bigger than a cat's box.
- Use agglomerating cat litter.
- Clean every day; foxes are picky on cleanliness.
- Foxes pee and defecate to mark everyday, several times a day.
- Some foxes, not all though, pee of excitement when they see their owner or an animal they like.
- To litter train, put the fox kit in a dog crate with the litter box, food and water bowl and toys.
- If the fox kit pees/defecates in the box, you can slowly expand its space to train it to continue to use the litter box even in bigger areas.
- If the fox kit pees/defecates elsewhere, scoop the feces and place them in the litter box. The kit will follow the smell and start using the box.
a-II) Puppy pads.
It is fairly common for foxes to think of their litter box as a "play ground/digging spot" instead of their "bathroom". Many foxes, especially young kits, prefer digging in their litters and throwing litter sand all over the place. If that is the case with your fox, I recommend trying to switch for puppy pads. I've only personally ever trained 3 foxes to go on the puppy pads; all the others were relatively good to go with the litter box. With all 3 foxes, I succeeded in having them go potty on the pads by placing the fox in the room where were the puppy pads and putting the fox's food and water dishes in the middle of the puppy pads. Foxes have a natural, instinctive habit of marking their food dishes. They would go mark around the dishes, directly onto the puppy pads and from then on, just started getting the habit of always doing their "business" on them. For young kits, one pad is big enough; for adult red or arctic foxes, I suggest placing 4 pads in such a way that they, together, create the shape of a square. Because this training method is based on a natural instinct of the fox (food marking), it can be taught to any fox - regardless of its age, level of tameness or gender (at least, in my own experience - the first was an extremely tame 2 years old male fox, the second was an 8 year old partially tame vixen and the third was a wild one year old male fox. After just 2-4 days, all three were 100% pad trained).
Please note that, although I was 100% successful in pad training 3 foxes of the V. vulpes species, it does not mean that it will work for all of them. I tried pad training an arctic fox but drastically failed; it does not mean that it is, however, impossible to pad train arctic foxes. Some foxes tend to just want to play or tear apart their pads. I had that issue and fixed it by purchasing puppy pads with glue underneath, that stick themselves to the ground where you want them placed.
To recapitulate:
- Many foxes tend to use their litter boxes as a digging spot, a playground, which makes it inconvenient and useless for its real purpose.
- Puppy pads can be an easy option!
- In my experience, foxes of any age, level of tameness and gender can learn to properly use the puppy pad since it is based on a natural behaviour of the fox.
- For kits: 1 pad, for teenagers and adults: 4 pads placed together to form a big square.
- Don't change the location of the pads too often. Settle on a place that you will continue to use for as long as you can.
- Put the fox's food and water dishes on the puppy pads. The fox will go mark them, therefore do its business on the puppy pads and will eventually catch on to it.
- If your fox wants to tear apart the pads, you may want to consider getting puppy pads with glue underneath them, in order to have them sticked to the floor.
Note: "Male wraps" are a good way to prevent male foxes from urinating in undesired areas, or even to prevent marking. It wraps itself around the waist, and only needs to be cleaned once a day. They can be purchased in pet shops.
b) Nipping/biting: Foxes nip and bite when they play. Their teeth are the most commonly used part of their body when it comes to playtime. Their sharp teeth are also used to bite when feeling scared or threatened. When threatened, foxes won't bite and tore the skin apart like dogs would do when they attack. A fox will only strike fast, bite, and then go back to the hiding spot. Sometimes, a fox will strike and not let go, if feeling very threatened or if wanting something you have. A fox's teeth are 3-4 times the size of those of a fully grown cat (Felis catus familiaris). To prevent stress-caused biting, make sure you avoid bringing your fox in stressful environments or to make any fast, unexpected movements towards it. Also, never corner your fox! To prevent play-biting, never let the fox play-bite on your fingers while playing. Always use a toy instead of your own fingers, that way the fox will get used to nip on its toy. If the fox continues to play-bite nevertheless, firmly say 'NO' when it does so, tap with a finger on its nose and stop playing. If the problem still persists, use a vinegar solution to spray.
On another note, the vast majority of foxes will go through a phase called October Crazies (it only happens during their first year of life, between 5 and 8 months of age). It's the time in a kit's life when the parents would push it out of the den, so it can find its own territory. At the same time, several hormones kick in to prepare the foxes for a life in solo where they must fend for themselves and face many dangers. When that time hits the fox, it will turn skittish, will start nipping you if you try to catch it, will run away from you and avoid most contact with you or other humans, will be more destructive, and might even stop using the litter box. This phase lasts anywhere between 2 weeks to 2 months and has different degrees depending on the fox (certain foxes go absolutely crazy while others, you could hardly even tell they are in the October Crazies phase). Regardless, you should never hit your fox if it does something bad during this period (you should never hit your fox, nor any other animal for that matter, regardless of the situation). Try to remain positive and continue going over the same routine you had with your fox before it entered the October Crazies phase. Things will mellow down and your fox will soon be back to its normal self! Don't forget, foxes will, in most cases, give warnings (gekkering, peeing, whining, ears back) before actually biting you. Listen to their body language and respect them.
To recapitulate:
- Fox teeth are 3-5 times bigger than an adult cat's.
- They often play-bite.
- Fox don't attack viciously; they strike, bite and hide somewhere safe if they feel threatened.
- Never corner a fox!
- Sometimes, foxes will bite and not let go, if feeling very threatened or if wanting something you have (food, toy).
- To prevent stress-caused bites, never make unexpected and fast moves towards your fox while making loud sounds.
- To dissuade play-biting, use a toy to play with your fox instead of your own hand.
- If biting persists, firmly say 'NO' and tap on the fox's nose with one finger.
- If even after this, the undesirable behavior still persists, use a vinegar solution to spray on the fox's face whenever it play-bites.
- October Crazies: seasonal aggression during a kit's first year.
- Lasts between 2 weeks to 2 months.
- Fox turns skittish, nips, stops using the litter box, avoids you, turns aggressive.
- Never hit your fox, regardless of what it does!
- Keep going over the same routine you had with your fox before the October Crazies. Your fox will soon be back to its normal self!
c) Leash & harness: Foxes have a lot of energy to consume, more than the average household dog. This is why leash and harness training is a must. Taking your fox out for walks and/or hikes in the woods ensures your fox gets enough physical activity every day and rightly spends its stocked energy. H harnesses and collars with the "belt system" are the most recommended and safest. Once an adult fox is on the loose, chances are it will never return to you, unless you're very lucky. It is also recommended for the leash to have a metal wire inside of it, to prevent the fox from chewing through it. Never leave a fox off-leash outdoors, unless it's in your backyard, and unless your backyard is secure enough (at least 6ft tall fence, completely fenced, no space underneath the fence, etc.) Get your fox used to wear a cat harness from a very young age. Leash and harness training should start as soon as possible to make sure your fox tolerates the leash and harness as it grows older. Associate the leash with something positive; a favourite treat, etc. Leave the harness on your kit for several hours each day, then start taking your fox out once it tolerates the harness/leash. Having a dog is a plus, as foxes tend to follow well-behaved dogs on leash outdoors. If you do not have a dog for your fox to follow, start by walking very slowly, let your fox walk by itself, gently call your fox when it stops without pulling too much as it may stress the fox. Whenever the fox walks well behind, next or in front of you, make sure to give it a treat. Take your fox out on a leash as often as you can when it is young, both to socialize it with other strangers and to leash-train it!
To recapitulate:
- Foxes need to consume their high energy levels.
- H harness + collars with belt-like systems are the safest.
- Always keep your fox leashed outdoors.
- You can only let your fox off-leash outdoors if your yard is completely fenced, has no space under the fence and an at least 6 feet tall fence.
- The fox's leash should preferably have a metal wire inside of it, to prevent the fox from chewing on it and escaping.
- Leave your fox kit with a harness on for several hours each day to get it used to it.
- Once the kit is okay with the harness/leash on, take it out for walks.
- Walk calmly and whenever the kit stops, gently call it while handing over a treat.
- If you have a dog that walks well on leashes, take it out on walks at the same time as the fox; foxes tend to follow dogs when they are on leash outside.
- Take your kit out on a leash and with a harness/collar as much as possible. Start EARLY! The earliest, the best, to make sure your fox remains tolerant of the leash as it grows older.
- Associate the leash/harness with something positive; a treat, for example.
d) Undesirable digging: Foxes are born diggers. They will dig to play, to hunt, to hide their food and to build their den, which is used as a nest for the kits and a home for the adults. In captivity, foxes will dig no matter what punishment methods one might use. It's their natural instinct to do so, and breaking instincts is impossible. If you don't want the fox to dig in flower/plant pots or in expensive couches or carpets, just don't let the fox in the same room as those objects. If you're in the same room with the fox when it starts digging, firmly and loudly shout 'NO'. If the digging persists, use a vinegar solution to spray on the fox's face. A pet repellent (similar to the one used to prevent cats from scratching furniture) can be used, though its effectiveness is not 100% verified with foxes.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are naturally great diggers. There is no way to stop a fox from digging, ever. However, there are ways to dissuade the fox to dig in your presence.
- Don't let the fox in the same room where there are expensive couches, flower pots, or any other thing susceptible to be dug into by the fox.
- If the fox digs indoors, shout 'NO'.
- If digging persists, spray vinegar solution on the fox's face while saying 'NO'.
- If nothing above works to dissuade the fox from digging, use pet repellent and spray it on what you want to protect from the fox. The effectiveness of pet repellent on foxes is still unknown though.
Example of undesirable digging: Miko (red fox) dug through an indoor flower pot.
e) Food aggression: Foxes in the wild consider anyone trying to come next to them while they eat, a threat. This kind of behavior can be very commonly found in pet ranched foxes. To dissuade your fox from exhibiting food aggression, get it used to your presence near its food bowl from a very young age. You should hand feed your kit from the very beginning, it is extremely important. Hand feeding is what will help the most to break down your fox's food aggression issues. If your kit exhibits food agression already at a young age, hand feed it with a glove. You should also start off by putting food in your fox's bowl, placing the bowl on the floor but without letting go of it. The fox will come and eat, might growl, snarl or even try to nip on you. In that case, don't push things. Repeat the same exercise every feeding time. When you notice the fox is comfortable enough to have your hand on the bowl while eating, try to pet its head and muzzle. If the fox reacts calmly and gently, try putting your hand in the food bowl and remove some food. You might want to try to use leather gloves for this step, unless you don't mind being bitten by the fox. Repeat everything mentioned previously as often as possible, especially during the first 3 months of your fox's life with you. Repeat from time to time afterwards, twice a week for an average, to ensure your fox remains calm. Remember, even with these methods, most foxes will still exhibit food aggressive behavior. If your fox steals something from you, something linked to food, be prepared and try to get as fast as possible another food article or a toy that will be more interesting for the fox. You will have to make a trade. Once the fox's attention is on the new food article/toy, take back the old one and place it somewhere where it is out of your fox's reach, to prevent it from being stolen by your furry companion again.
Another great technique is that of fork-feeding your food-aggressive fox. From the moment you get your fox as a young kit, feed it food from the tip of a metal fork. The kit will bite down aggressively on the fork and hurt itself. Repeat this action, over and over again. The fox will learn to take food gently by association. It will associate the pain of biting down on the metal fork to himself or herself snapping at the food. The fox will associate no pain to taking the food gently from the fork, however. This technique works extremely well with food-aggressive animals.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are commonly food-aggressive in the wild and as pets.
- Hand feed from the VERY beginning. If needed, use a leather glove at first.
- Start getting your fox used to your presence around the food bowl from a very young age!
- Keep a hand on the food bowl while your fox kit eats from it.
- If the fox growls and snarls, don't push things. Repeat the same step every feeding session, for days or even weeks until the fox gets used to it.
- Once the fox tolerates your hand's presence on the bowl during feeding time, start petting the fox's head and muzzle with your other hand.
- Repeat the step above for a few days, to get the fox accustomed.
- Once the fox is calm enough, try to put your hand gently in the food bowl. Use leather gloves to prevent defensive biting.
- Repeat all the steps above as often as possible for the first 3 months of your fox's life with you.
- After 3 months, repeat twice a week on average to keep the fox accustomed to your presence near its food.
- If fox steals food-related item, try to catch his attention with food or a toy, and grab the stolen item as soon as the fox is not paying attention to it anymore.
- Fork technique: feed your fox from the tip of a metal fork.
- Fox will hurt itself when biting down aggressively on the fork.
- Will learn by association not to bite down to get its food, but to take it gently and therefore, avoid getting hurt.
f) Undesirable chewing: Foxes are chewers, just as much as they are diggers. They will chew on their toys, on your clothes (if they are left hanging around on the floor) on chair legs, pillows, cables, etc. anything that they can have a grip of with their mouth, they will chew on it. To prevent the fox from chewing your pillows, blankets or any plush-like materials/objects, make sure you never buy your fox a plush toy. Only buy plastic toys, this way the fox won't get used to chew on plush. Whenever you catch the fox chewing on objects such as pillows, cables, etc. firmly and loudly say 'NO' while spraying a vinegar solution on its face. If the chewing behavior persists with the cables, purchase cable protectors. Make sure you don't let clothes, books, magazines or even plastic bags laying on the floor, as the fox will most likely grab them,run away with them & start chewing on them and tore them apart. Keep the house clean and all sorted out.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes chew on everything that their mouth can grab.
- Never leave clothing, bags, magazines, etc. on the floor: the fox will grab them, hide them and tear the apart.
- Never purchase plush toys for the fox; it will then consider any other plush-like objects (pillows, etc.) toys and will chew on them.
- If the fox chews cables or anything else, say 'NO' and spray a vinegar solution on its face.
- Hide the cables, or purchase cable protectors to place around them.
Another great technique is that of fork-feeding your food-aggressive fox. From the moment you get your fox as a young kit, feed it food from the tip of a metal fork. The kit will bite down aggressively on the fork and hurt itself. Repeat this action, over and over again. The fox will learn to take food gently by association. It will associate the pain of biting down on the metal fork to himself or herself snapping at the food. The fox will associate no pain to taking the food gently from the fork, however. This technique works extremely well with food-aggressive animals.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are commonly food-aggressive in the wild and as pets.
- Hand feed from the VERY beginning. If needed, use a leather glove at first.
- Start getting your fox used to your presence around the food bowl from a very young age!
- Keep a hand on the food bowl while your fox kit eats from it.
- If the fox growls and snarls, don't push things. Repeat the same step every feeding session, for days or even weeks until the fox gets used to it.
- Once the fox tolerates your hand's presence on the bowl during feeding time, start petting the fox's head and muzzle with your other hand.
- Repeat the step above for a few days, to get the fox accustomed.
- Once the fox is calm enough, try to put your hand gently in the food bowl. Use leather gloves to prevent defensive biting.
- Repeat all the steps above as often as possible for the first 3 months of your fox's life with you.
- After 3 months, repeat twice a week on average to keep the fox accustomed to your presence near its food.
- If fox steals food-related item, try to catch his attention with food or a toy, and grab the stolen item as soon as the fox is not paying attention to it anymore.
- Fork technique: feed your fox from the tip of a metal fork.
- Fox will hurt itself when biting down aggressively on the fork.
- Will learn by association not to bite down to get its food, but to take it gently and therefore, avoid getting hurt.
f) Undesirable chewing: Foxes are chewers, just as much as they are diggers. They will chew on their toys, on your clothes (if they are left hanging around on the floor) on chair legs, pillows, cables, etc. anything that they can have a grip of with their mouth, they will chew on it. To prevent the fox from chewing your pillows, blankets or any plush-like materials/objects, make sure you never buy your fox a plush toy. Only buy plastic toys, this way the fox won't get used to chew on plush. Whenever you catch the fox chewing on objects such as pillows, cables, etc. firmly and loudly say 'NO' while spraying a vinegar solution on its face. If the chewing behavior persists with the cables, purchase cable protectors. Make sure you don't let clothes, books, magazines or even plastic bags laying on the floor, as the fox will most likely grab them,run away with them & start chewing on them and tore them apart. Keep the house clean and all sorted out.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes chew on everything that their mouth can grab.
- Never leave clothing, bags, magazines, etc. on the floor: the fox will grab them, hide them and tear the apart.
- Never purchase plush toys for the fox; it will then consider any other plush-like objects (pillows, etc.) toys and will chew on them.
- If the fox chews cables or anything else, say 'NO' and spray a vinegar solution on its face.
- Hide the cables, or purchase cable protectors to place around them.
Example of undesirable chewing: Miko (red fox) chewed a hole through the patio's wood fence.
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Example of undesirable chewing: Noki (red fox) chewed the wood planks of the bed and the bed covers.
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g) Dominance over toys/objects: Foxes can be very greedy animals by nature. Many pet foxes will steal their owners' belongings occasionally, and hide them. It has been observed that usually, a fox will grow up to be careful and very protective of his/her first toy (if it makes it until the fox is an adult). The other toys they get will be destroyed within a couple of months, but can be shred to pieces the day they receive them. Sometimes, they develop an obsession over newly acquired toys or things they steal from you. There is no real way to ever train your fox out of being dominant over some objects or toys. It's just the way foxes are. A prospective fox owner should respect that, and when the fox has its favorite toy and is playing with it, the owner should just let the fox do its thing without bothering it or trying to take the toy away, because that may cause the fox to try to bite you or never let you play with it and its toys all together again out of fear you will steal them. If there is one specific toy that really makes your fox aggressive and/or dominant, take the toy and throw it away, to avoid your fox turning more dominant and aggressive for it, and other objects, overtime. If the fox really has massive aggression issues in regards to a specific toy, it can also pose a threat to children or friends that come visit your house (say, if they try to take the toy to play with the fox, but don't know that the fox is dominant with that toy, they will get bit, and when foxes bit to protect something, they usually sink their teeth in your hand and don't let go for a while). As for the dominance over objects they have stolen (socks, pens, etc.) they key to preventing this is to never leave anything wandering on the floor or anyplace that can easily be accessible by a fox (that can be tricky, though, as foxes can jump very high and climb easily onto things, especially if they have a purpose of doing so).
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are greedy animals by nature.
- Foxes will sometimes steal their owners' belongings and try to hide them.
- Foxes might develop obsessions over certain toys.
- If they obsess over a toy or an object to the point that they turn aggressive when someone walks near them when they are playing with the said toy or object, take the toy and throw it away - it will eventually only lead to problems.
- If your fox steals something from you and bites when you try to take it back, make a trade: give the fox a treat or a toy and take your stolen object away.
- Never let anything (socks, etc.) on the floor. Always clean up and make sure your things are out of reach for the fox.
- A fox that is possessive and overly dominant with something can bite pretty seriously if someone tries to take away the toy or object from them.
h) Screaming (at night/during the day): Foxes communicate using various vocalizations, from brief whines and grunts to loud and long-lasting screams. A fox that is bonded to its owner will often scream of joy and/or make happy whines when the owner comes back home and goes to see the fox. That doesn't last long though, usually just a couple of seconds to a couple of minutes. Foxes will scream if they are left in a (not very big) enclosure for too long without being taken out for exercising. They will make long and loud screams similar to a cry. Of course, the solution to this is to take your fox out every day, play with it, let it run around and give it room to exercise and burn off its energy. A responsible owner will not let their fox in their enclosure 24/7, unless the said enclosure provides enough enrichment and space (so a minimal size 10x10 enclosure, even a 20x20 one, is a no go if you plan on leaving your fox in it for days). Fox kits will sometimes scream and cry at night during their first days with the new family. In such scenarios, you can either go comfort the fox kit every time it starts crying, or ignore the kit and not give it attention when it cries at night. If you choose the first option, two things could happen: the fox kit will be reassured and will fall asleep, or it will start screaming again, sometimes even more, once you go back to sleep, and will do so over and over again because it knows you will go see him/her and give him/her attention again. If you choose the second option, you will have to get ear plugs if you're not a hard sleeper and tolerate the cries for a couple night until the kit realizes that nothing happens and no one comes no matter how hard it cries. Then, it will stop crying at night. If you crate your kit for too long, it will get annoyed and bored and might start screaming to get out as well. Make sure you give your kit enough attention every day and that you find things that keep it stimulated, to get his mind and body tired. Spaying/neutering your fox grandly helps with the seasonal screaming. Most intact foxes will make a vocalization called ''rolling bark'' which is like a guttural scream with ''roo roo roo'' added from time to time. That specific vocalization is generally a very loud one and foxes are very persistent during breeding season - they will scream in the hopes of locating a potential mate. Fixed foxes rarely, if ever, scream during breeding season, whereas intact ones usually will scream. The breeding season lasts about 2 months, during which your fox(es) will emit those long lasting cries. If you don't intend on breeding (which you shouldn't, unless you have experience with foxes and a great deal of knowledge on them) you should spay/neuter your fox. Not only does it reduce or completely prevent the screams, but it also helps with their mood. Pregnant vixens or vixens with newborn kits will sometimes scream to tell off intruders or what they consider as threats to their offspring.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes have over 40 different vocalizations.
- Foxes will sometimes scream of happiness, when they see you come home, but it only lasts a few seconds to a few minutes.
- Foxes will scream if kept for too long in a not-too-big enclosure, without proper mental and physical stimulation.
- Keep your fox entertained daily, with things to do to burn off its energy.
- Young kits may cry at night for the first days/weeks.
- Either go see the kit whenever it cries or ignore it.
- If you ignore the kit, it will eventually stop crying as it will realize nothing happens and no one comes despite its cries.
- If you go and see the kit, it will either be comforted and stop crying, or it will start crying as soon as you go back to sleep (since it made the connection that crying = human coming to see what's going on = attention).
- Spay/neuter your fox to try and prevent seasonal screaming.
- Most intact foxes will scream during the 2 months of breeding season, to call a mate.
- Vixens sometimes scream during whelping season to tell off potential threats to their kits.
i) Traveling with your fox: Foxes can be used to traveling by car if they are brought up to it from a young age. They are not animals that can live traveling around, though, so if you have a job that requires you move around by car, interstate or intercity, several times a week, a fox is not a right choice for you. If you want to travel with your fox by car for a few hours, make sure you bring water, a bit of (light) food like fruits, veggies and a bit of raw meat (not something too consistent to prevent the fox from getting car sick or needing to go potty too often). You can put a harness on your fox, attach the leash to the harness and attach the other end of the leash to the security belt. Don't let the fox roam free in the car as it might jump on you and make you cause an involuntary accident. Don't attach your fox from a collar; your fox might get chocked. Foxes that are used to car trips often stay calm and at their place when traveling, and look out the window every once and a while. Other foxes prefer staying where your feet should be. If your fox is really agitated in cars, though, bring a big crate and put your fox in it. If your fox is crated, make sure to stop every once in a while to take it out on a leash (for potty, but mostly to reduce its stress). Some foxes have motion sickness and urinate/defecate and/or vomit when traveling by car. If your fox ends up being one of these foxes, you should avoid car trips, to prevent unnecessarily stressing the animal which could potentially lead to major anxiety, if the stress levels get too high and the car trips, too frequent.
When traveling through country or state lines, make sure it is indeed legal to cross the borders with your fox! Even if you do not plan on staying in said state/country and you are just driving through, it is illegal if the law says "not authorized to import a fox or travel with a fox". Contact the government of the country/state you are planning on driving through to make sure that it is legal for you to have your fox cross the border.
Certain states/countries that have a ban on pet fox ownership WILL allow you to keep your fox with you in the state/country in question for a certain amount of time, as you are a visitor. To know what the requirements are and how many days you are allowed to stay there with your fox, contact the government of the state/country in question. Make sure to keep written proof of what you were told to avoid unnecessary risks of having your fox taken away from you.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes can be used to traveling.
- They are not animals that can live traveling around; if your job requires you travel every week a couple of times for long distances, don't get a fox.
- Bring water, light food (to avoid car sickness).
- Make stops to let your fox out on a leash for potty.
- Put a harness on your fox, attach the leash to it and attach the other end of the leash to the security belt.
- Don't attach your fox from a collar, never. It could choke it.
- Don't let your fox roam freely in the car; it may make you cause an accident.
- If the fox is stressed in the car, use a big crate.
- Some foxes have motion sickness and stress out a lot when traveling by car. They vomit and/or urinate/defecate. If your fox gets highly stressed when in a car, avoid as much as possible car rides, or it could eventually lead to anxiety issues.
- Make sure you check the fox-related laws of the states/countries/cities you plan on going through with your fox. It is VERY important!
j) Catching your fox: If your fox isn't tame enough to be caught or simply doesn't like being caught, luring them in a live trap with food is the best way to go, as the fox won't associate you with the discomfort of being caught. Do not ever corner a fox to catch it, especially if it doesn't like being caught. This will result in the fox potentially losing trust in you. Leaving a harness on your fox at all times might be another easy way to be able to handle your fox and catch it when necessary. Avoid catching your fox by the scruff or by the tail. That is something that shouldn't ever be done on an adult or teenager fox. Scruffing a young, small kit can be done, but do not do that on a fox that is past the age of 2 months old.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are greedy animals by nature.
- Foxes will sometimes steal their owners' belongings and try to hide them.
- Foxes might develop obsessions over certain toys.
- If they obsess over a toy or an object to the point that they turn aggressive when someone walks near them when they are playing with the said toy or object, take the toy and throw it away - it will eventually only lead to problems.
- If your fox steals something from you and bites when you try to take it back, make a trade: give the fox a treat or a toy and take your stolen object away.
- Never let anything (socks, etc.) on the floor. Always clean up and make sure your things are out of reach for the fox.
- A fox that is possessive and overly dominant with something can bite pretty seriously if someone tries to take away the toy or object from them.
h) Screaming (at night/during the day): Foxes communicate using various vocalizations, from brief whines and grunts to loud and long-lasting screams. A fox that is bonded to its owner will often scream of joy and/or make happy whines when the owner comes back home and goes to see the fox. That doesn't last long though, usually just a couple of seconds to a couple of minutes. Foxes will scream if they are left in a (not very big) enclosure for too long without being taken out for exercising. They will make long and loud screams similar to a cry. Of course, the solution to this is to take your fox out every day, play with it, let it run around and give it room to exercise and burn off its energy. A responsible owner will not let their fox in their enclosure 24/7, unless the said enclosure provides enough enrichment and space (so a minimal size 10x10 enclosure, even a 20x20 one, is a no go if you plan on leaving your fox in it for days). Fox kits will sometimes scream and cry at night during their first days with the new family. In such scenarios, you can either go comfort the fox kit every time it starts crying, or ignore the kit and not give it attention when it cries at night. If you choose the first option, two things could happen: the fox kit will be reassured and will fall asleep, or it will start screaming again, sometimes even more, once you go back to sleep, and will do so over and over again because it knows you will go see him/her and give him/her attention again. If you choose the second option, you will have to get ear plugs if you're not a hard sleeper and tolerate the cries for a couple night until the kit realizes that nothing happens and no one comes no matter how hard it cries. Then, it will stop crying at night. If you crate your kit for too long, it will get annoyed and bored and might start screaming to get out as well. Make sure you give your kit enough attention every day and that you find things that keep it stimulated, to get his mind and body tired. Spaying/neutering your fox grandly helps with the seasonal screaming. Most intact foxes will make a vocalization called ''rolling bark'' which is like a guttural scream with ''roo roo roo'' added from time to time. That specific vocalization is generally a very loud one and foxes are very persistent during breeding season - they will scream in the hopes of locating a potential mate. Fixed foxes rarely, if ever, scream during breeding season, whereas intact ones usually will scream. The breeding season lasts about 2 months, during which your fox(es) will emit those long lasting cries. If you don't intend on breeding (which you shouldn't, unless you have experience with foxes and a great deal of knowledge on them) you should spay/neuter your fox. Not only does it reduce or completely prevent the screams, but it also helps with their mood. Pregnant vixens or vixens with newborn kits will sometimes scream to tell off intruders or what they consider as threats to their offspring.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes have over 40 different vocalizations.
- Foxes will sometimes scream of happiness, when they see you come home, but it only lasts a few seconds to a few minutes.
- Foxes will scream if kept for too long in a not-too-big enclosure, without proper mental and physical stimulation.
- Keep your fox entertained daily, with things to do to burn off its energy.
- Young kits may cry at night for the first days/weeks.
- Either go see the kit whenever it cries or ignore it.
- If you ignore the kit, it will eventually stop crying as it will realize nothing happens and no one comes despite its cries.
- If you go and see the kit, it will either be comforted and stop crying, or it will start crying as soon as you go back to sleep (since it made the connection that crying = human coming to see what's going on = attention).
- Spay/neuter your fox to try and prevent seasonal screaming.
- Most intact foxes will scream during the 2 months of breeding season, to call a mate.
- Vixens sometimes scream during whelping season to tell off potential threats to their kits.
i) Traveling with your fox: Foxes can be used to traveling by car if they are brought up to it from a young age. They are not animals that can live traveling around, though, so if you have a job that requires you move around by car, interstate or intercity, several times a week, a fox is not a right choice for you. If you want to travel with your fox by car for a few hours, make sure you bring water, a bit of (light) food like fruits, veggies and a bit of raw meat (not something too consistent to prevent the fox from getting car sick or needing to go potty too often). You can put a harness on your fox, attach the leash to the harness and attach the other end of the leash to the security belt. Don't let the fox roam free in the car as it might jump on you and make you cause an involuntary accident. Don't attach your fox from a collar; your fox might get chocked. Foxes that are used to car trips often stay calm and at their place when traveling, and look out the window every once and a while. Other foxes prefer staying where your feet should be. If your fox is really agitated in cars, though, bring a big crate and put your fox in it. If your fox is crated, make sure to stop every once in a while to take it out on a leash (for potty, but mostly to reduce its stress). Some foxes have motion sickness and urinate/defecate and/or vomit when traveling by car. If your fox ends up being one of these foxes, you should avoid car trips, to prevent unnecessarily stressing the animal which could potentially lead to major anxiety, if the stress levels get too high and the car trips, too frequent.
When traveling through country or state lines, make sure it is indeed legal to cross the borders with your fox! Even if you do not plan on staying in said state/country and you are just driving through, it is illegal if the law says "not authorized to import a fox or travel with a fox". Contact the government of the country/state you are planning on driving through to make sure that it is legal for you to have your fox cross the border.
Certain states/countries that have a ban on pet fox ownership WILL allow you to keep your fox with you in the state/country in question for a certain amount of time, as you are a visitor. To know what the requirements are and how many days you are allowed to stay there with your fox, contact the government of the state/country in question. Make sure to keep written proof of what you were told to avoid unnecessary risks of having your fox taken away from you.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes can be used to traveling.
- They are not animals that can live traveling around; if your job requires you travel every week a couple of times for long distances, don't get a fox.
- Bring water, light food (to avoid car sickness).
- Make stops to let your fox out on a leash for potty.
- Put a harness on your fox, attach the leash to it and attach the other end of the leash to the security belt.
- Don't attach your fox from a collar, never. It could choke it.
- Don't let your fox roam freely in the car; it may make you cause an accident.
- If the fox is stressed in the car, use a big crate.
- Some foxes have motion sickness and stress out a lot when traveling by car. They vomit and/or urinate/defecate. If your fox gets highly stressed when in a car, avoid as much as possible car rides, or it could eventually lead to anxiety issues.
- Make sure you check the fox-related laws of the states/countries/cities you plan on going through with your fox. It is VERY important!
j) Catching your fox: If your fox isn't tame enough to be caught or simply doesn't like being caught, luring them in a live trap with food is the best way to go, as the fox won't associate you with the discomfort of being caught. Do not ever corner a fox to catch it, especially if it doesn't like being caught. This will result in the fox potentially losing trust in you. Leaving a harness on your fox at all times might be another easy way to be able to handle your fox and catch it when necessary. Avoid catching your fox by the scruff or by the tail. That is something that shouldn't ever be done on an adult or teenager fox. Scruffing a young, small kit can be done, but do not do that on a fox that is past the age of 2 months old.
Compatibility with other animals.
Foxes can get along with domestic pets, depending on the species concerned, but it is necessary to supervise them whenever they are allowed to interact together. Generally, it is recommended not to house a fox with an animal much smaller than the fox itself. It is also better to introduce a young fox kit to an already mature cat, dog, etc. and not the contrary. Accidents can happen, and foxes are particularly rough and mouthy during playtime. In order to have your fox safely live with your other pet, you must always watch them when they are together to prevent unpleasant situations from taking place.
Note: Avoid housing foxes with any type of rodent, reptile, bird, or amphibian. Foxes prey on these animals in the wild, and although your fox is most likely from a captive line of foxes bred for pets, the natural instinct is, believe it or not, still in them and they will prey on such animals (I experienced it myself with my fox Miko, who caught and killed a bird, a rat and mice, several times). Also, keep in mind that the information provided below works generally in most cases, however, each animal is an individual and some may never get along.
a) Cats, servals, lynx and other felines (of small to medium size): Foxes can get along well with felines, but it is recommended that the two be supervised whenever they are allowed to interact together, as accidents can happen. Foxes play roughly, and if the cat gets injured and runs away, the fox's preying instinct might be triggered, which could result in a fatality for the cat. It is best to introduce a fox kit to an adult cat, and never the contrary, to maximize the chances of the two living harmoniously together as the fox matures.
b) Dogs, coyotes, wolfdogs, and other canines: Foxes generally adore dogs and canines in general. They can rough play with them, chase each other and be the best playtime buddies. I have never had any problems with my foxes and dogs, and nor did the people I know who have foxes with dogs. It is better if you get the fox as a kit and introduce it to your dog, however, the contrary can also work if the fox has been socialized with dogs during its life. Remember to supervise them when they are together, as, although I have never heard of anything of the sort, accidents can still happen.
c) Ferrets and other mustelids (mink, polecat, etc.): Foxes can get along with ferrets and other mustelids, but in this scenario, considering the smaller size of ferrets and most mustelids, it is primordial that the fox be introduced as a kit to a mature ferret/mustelid. There are several people who house foxes with ferrets and the two play together nicely. Ferrets, and most mustelids, are energetic, playful animals that play quite roughly, which matches with the way foxes are. I, personally, introduced a mink to a fox kit once, and the two got along good. However, considering the small size of ferrets and most mustelids, it is also primordial to supervise them at all times when they are allowed to interact with each other, to prevent accidents from occurring.
d) Toddlers and children: Although there are individuals who successfully keep children, or even toddlers with their foxes, it is generally not advised. Foxes are very high energy animals that use their mouth and teeth to play, in a way called "mouthing" or "play-biting". Generally, foxes do not control the force with which they close their jaw on your arm when they mouth you, even if they have been taught not to play-bite directly on the skin. Unfortunately, this can lead to accidents (scratched skin, even a bite). A toddler or a child, even if told not to behave a certain way with the fox, may not always listen. Grabbing the fox's tail, paw, hitting it (while playing) or pulling on its fur will most likely make the fox go into a defensive mode and a bad bite will most likely follow. If your children or toddlers have been taught how to behave around animals and know how to respect the fox's boundaries and recognize when it is mad (gekking sounds, growling) and if you as a parent, most importantly, make sure to ALWAYS (not one second of inattention) supervise your child or toddler when it is around the fox, it could work out. But keep in mind that is it not recommended and there is always a risk of which you should be aware.
Extra: There is a myth saying that if you own reptiles, particularly snakes, your fox will smell it on you and hate you. That is, as I mentioned in the previous sentence, a myth. It is untrue that a fox will hate you and fear you if you own reptiles. Just remember not to let your fox interact with your reptiles as that could result in a fatality for your friends with scales, as foxes naturally prey on them in the wild.
Foxes can get along with domestic pets, depending on the species concerned, but it is necessary to supervise them whenever they are allowed to interact together. Generally, it is recommended not to house a fox with an animal much smaller than the fox itself. It is also better to introduce a young fox kit to an already mature cat, dog, etc. and not the contrary. Accidents can happen, and foxes are particularly rough and mouthy during playtime. In order to have your fox safely live with your other pet, you must always watch them when they are together to prevent unpleasant situations from taking place.
Note: Avoid housing foxes with any type of rodent, reptile, bird, or amphibian. Foxes prey on these animals in the wild, and although your fox is most likely from a captive line of foxes bred for pets, the natural instinct is, believe it or not, still in them and they will prey on such animals (I experienced it myself with my fox Miko, who caught and killed a bird, a rat and mice, several times). Also, keep in mind that the information provided below works generally in most cases, however, each animal is an individual and some may never get along.
a) Cats, servals, lynx and other felines (of small to medium size): Foxes can get along well with felines, but it is recommended that the two be supervised whenever they are allowed to interact together, as accidents can happen. Foxes play roughly, and if the cat gets injured and runs away, the fox's preying instinct might be triggered, which could result in a fatality for the cat. It is best to introduce a fox kit to an adult cat, and never the contrary, to maximize the chances of the two living harmoniously together as the fox matures.
b) Dogs, coyotes, wolfdogs, and other canines: Foxes generally adore dogs and canines in general. They can rough play with them, chase each other and be the best playtime buddies. I have never had any problems with my foxes and dogs, and nor did the people I know who have foxes with dogs. It is better if you get the fox as a kit and introduce it to your dog, however, the contrary can also work if the fox has been socialized with dogs during its life. Remember to supervise them when they are together, as, although I have never heard of anything of the sort, accidents can still happen.
c) Ferrets and other mustelids (mink, polecat, etc.): Foxes can get along with ferrets and other mustelids, but in this scenario, considering the smaller size of ferrets and most mustelids, it is primordial that the fox be introduced as a kit to a mature ferret/mustelid. There are several people who house foxes with ferrets and the two play together nicely. Ferrets, and most mustelids, are energetic, playful animals that play quite roughly, which matches with the way foxes are. I, personally, introduced a mink to a fox kit once, and the two got along good. However, considering the small size of ferrets and most mustelids, it is also primordial to supervise them at all times when they are allowed to interact with each other, to prevent accidents from occurring.
d) Toddlers and children: Although there are individuals who successfully keep children, or even toddlers with their foxes, it is generally not advised. Foxes are very high energy animals that use their mouth and teeth to play, in a way called "mouthing" or "play-biting". Generally, foxes do not control the force with which they close their jaw on your arm when they mouth you, even if they have been taught not to play-bite directly on the skin. Unfortunately, this can lead to accidents (scratched skin, even a bite). A toddler or a child, even if told not to behave a certain way with the fox, may not always listen. Grabbing the fox's tail, paw, hitting it (while playing) or pulling on its fur will most likely make the fox go into a defensive mode and a bad bite will most likely follow. If your children or toddlers have been taught how to behave around animals and know how to respect the fox's boundaries and recognize when it is mad (gekking sounds, growling) and if you as a parent, most importantly, make sure to ALWAYS (not one second of inattention) supervise your child or toddler when it is around the fox, it could work out. But keep in mind that is it not recommended and there is always a risk of which you should be aware.
Extra: There is a myth saying that if you own reptiles, particularly snakes, your fox will smell it on you and hate you. That is, as I mentioned in the previous sentence, a myth. It is untrue that a fox will hate you and fear you if you own reptiles. Just remember not to let your fox interact with your reptiles as that could result in a fatality for your friends with scales, as foxes naturally prey on them in the wild.
Riku the marble fox and Kodi the Siberian husky.
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Tiana the rescue cat and Noki the red marble fox kit.
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Kodi the Siberian husky & Miko the champagne fox.
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Veterinary care.
a) Vaccines: Before reading this, please understand that the following vaccines are compatible for the Red fox and the Arctic fox! Other fox species may require specific vaccines which differ from the ones given to V. vulpes and V. lagopus. Grey foxes, for example, can die if given distemper shots. Make your research. This is a care sheet for Red foxes specifically but can be applied, to a certain extent, to Arctic foxes and a few other of the bigger species. All fox species have somewhat different needs, antics and so on. Be careful and properly make your research. Vaccines for red and arctic foxes are the following: rabies (ferret vaccine), bordetella (dog vaccine), leptospirosis (dog vaccine) and DHPP which stands for distemper (dog vaccine), adenovirus (hepatitis, dog vaccine), parvovirus (dog vaccine) and parainfluenza (dog vaccine). The rabies vaccine most fox owners use is the Imrab-3, although there are others that can be used - please research before settling!
To recapitulate:
- This is a red fox care sheet. Vaccines shown here work on red and arctic foxes, but may cause death to other fox species, so please do your research if you're looking at what vaccines to give another fox species (here is a website that may help).
- Rabies (ferret vaccine) Imrab-3.
- Leptospirosis (dog vaccine).
- Bordetella (dog vaccine).
- DHPP (4 vaccines: distemper/dog vaccine, adenovirus/dog vaccine, parvovirus/dog vaccine, parainfluenza/dog vaccine).
b) Ear mites: Foxes with ear mites will excessively scratch their ears and shake their head. It is possible to see the ear mites if you attentively inspect the ears. They are small white bugs and generally there are dozens of them in the ears, not just a few. They don't move a lot but if you carefully look, you can detect movement. Foxes are very prone to having ear mites, in captivity as well as in the wild. Many kits have ear mites when they are young, especially if they come from fur farms. Simply go see your veterinarian and ask for puppy ear mite solution (if the fox is a kit) or dog ear mite solution (if the fox is an adult). Usually, the number of drops from the solution that you have to administrate are in relation to the weight and/or age of the animal.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are prone to having ear mites.
- They will shake their head and scratch their ears excessively if they have them.
- Ask for ear mite solution at your vet clinic.
- Administrate by following the guidelines (usually indicated on the box).
c) Ticks & fleas: Foxes with fleas with excessively scratch their body. If the flea infestation is intense, they might have patches of fur missing from too much scratching, and slight wounds to their body (also from scratching themselves too intensively). Those wounds can get infected, therefore it is extremely important to treat your fox against fleas. Make sure to clean your fox's enclosure everyday during spring and summer (and warm autumn days). Don't let accumulations of dust inside; the enclosure would then become an appropriate living ground for fleas. Ticks can grab a hold of the fox even on a simple walk in the park, or a run in the garden. They can carry illnesses which can be mortal to the fox (and to other pets, as well). Go ask your veterinarian for anti-ticks and anti-fleas solutions that you should administrate following the written guidelines. It's extremely important to protect your fox against fleas and ticks.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes with fleas with excessively scratch themselves, sometimes to the point where they will wound themselves and rip off patches of fur.
- Clean your fox's enclosure everyday and make sure there are no dust accumulations, as that is a great environment for fleas.
- Ask your veterinarian for anti-ticks and anti-fleas solutions that you will administrate following the guidelines.
- Fleas and ticks can transmit diseases, some which can be mortal if not treated.
- It is very important to protect your fox from both ticks and fleas!
d) Wounds & fractures: Accidents can happen, and sometimes more serious wounds, or even fractures, can be the outcome of these accidents. If your fox has a minor wound, apply a solution to clean the wound and prevent infection and then apply a solution helping wounds scar easily and conveniently. If the wound is big and bleeds a lot, take a piece of clothing and apply a big pressure to the wound while someone keeps the fox from moving and struggling. You have to put as much pressure as possible to prevent a massive loss of blood. Rush to the veterinarian as soon as possible! If your fox appears to have a broken limb, follow the same guidelines. With help from others, try to maintain the fox in one position. Don't let it move or struggle at all. On your way to the vet, try to immobilize the broken limb between two pieces of wood/plastic (a solid material that doesn't bend) to prevent the fractured bone from moving and piercing veins or skin.
To recapitulate:
- Minor wound: apply cleaning solution to prevent infection, and scarring solution.
- Massive bleeding wound: apply as much pressure as possible on the wound, with a piece of clothing, to prevent loss of blood. Rush to the vet ASAP. Ask a friend or family member to hold the fox, to prevent is from struggling too much.
- Fracture: keep the fox in the same position, don't let it struggle or move to prevent the fractured bone from moving and piercing veins and/or skin, which would cause more damage. Immobilize the broken limb between 2 pieces of a solid material that doesn't bend (wood, solid plastic, etc.)
e) Intestinal parasites: Foxes should be dewormed starting from 1 month old. Administrate the deworming medicine (in most scenarios, deworming medicine is found under the shape of pills) depending on the guidelines. Portion is variable, depending on weight, and is all written generally on the pills box. Just like any other family companion animal, a fox should be dewormed every month, as they are prone to contract worms from outdoor animals such as skunks, mice (if they kill and eat a mouse or a bird that had worms), raccoons, stray cats and even non-treated pets (dogs) that the fox could meet at the park.
To recapitulate:
- Deworming should start at 1 month old.
- Administrate by following the guidelines, written generally on the box.
- Portion depends on the animal's weight.
- Administrate dewormer once per month to your fox.
f) Plaque and accumulation of tartar: Foxes, like other animals, can develop tartar for several reasons. "Plaque is a gummy substance that forms on the teeth within a few hours after a meal. Within 24 hours, plaque begins to harden by combining with salts that are present in the saliva. As the plaque continues to accumulate and mineralize, it eventually transforms into tartar.There are two ways that tartar harms the teeth and gums. First, tarter forms a rough surface so it serves as a place for bacteria to grow and multiply in the mouth. These bacteria can cause inflammation of the gums (gingivitis), which often results in bleeding. When gingivitis worsens, it leads to periodontal disease, which leads to further inflammation, pain and tooth loss. As tartar builds up along the gum line, it pushes the gums away from the roots of the teeth. As the gums recede, they expose the sensitive, enamel-free part of the tooth which causes pain. Second, the bacteria on the tartar can be absorbed into the blood stream and deposited in various organs, including the heart and the kidneys, causing infection.
After your fox's teeth have been professionally cleaned and polished by your veterinarian, home dental care is needed to help reduce plaque and tartar buildup. You can decrease plaque accumulation by:
Source and information credits: [x]
In my own experience, what has worked to remove tartar from my fox's teeth was a big amount of patience and a needle. I held my fox and carefully but with strength, scratched off the tartar that was on his teeth. I do not recommend doing that if you don't have a steady hand (you wouldn't want to risk injuring your fox's mouth), if your fox isn't generally very calm and patient by nature and if you don't have the patience to put up with an annoyed fox for 1-2 hours (2h30 in my case).
a) Vaccines: Before reading this, please understand that the following vaccines are compatible for the Red fox and the Arctic fox! Other fox species may require specific vaccines which differ from the ones given to V. vulpes and V. lagopus. Grey foxes, for example, can die if given distemper shots. Make your research. This is a care sheet for Red foxes specifically but can be applied, to a certain extent, to Arctic foxes and a few other of the bigger species. All fox species have somewhat different needs, antics and so on. Be careful and properly make your research. Vaccines for red and arctic foxes are the following: rabies (ferret vaccine), bordetella (dog vaccine), leptospirosis (dog vaccine) and DHPP which stands for distemper (dog vaccine), adenovirus (hepatitis, dog vaccine), parvovirus (dog vaccine) and parainfluenza (dog vaccine). The rabies vaccine most fox owners use is the Imrab-3, although there are others that can be used - please research before settling!
To recapitulate:
- This is a red fox care sheet. Vaccines shown here work on red and arctic foxes, but may cause death to other fox species, so please do your research if you're looking at what vaccines to give another fox species (here is a website that may help).
- Rabies (ferret vaccine) Imrab-3.
- Leptospirosis (dog vaccine).
- Bordetella (dog vaccine).
- DHPP (4 vaccines: distemper/dog vaccine, adenovirus/dog vaccine, parvovirus/dog vaccine, parainfluenza/dog vaccine).
b) Ear mites: Foxes with ear mites will excessively scratch their ears and shake their head. It is possible to see the ear mites if you attentively inspect the ears. They are small white bugs and generally there are dozens of them in the ears, not just a few. They don't move a lot but if you carefully look, you can detect movement. Foxes are very prone to having ear mites, in captivity as well as in the wild. Many kits have ear mites when they are young, especially if they come from fur farms. Simply go see your veterinarian and ask for puppy ear mite solution (if the fox is a kit) or dog ear mite solution (if the fox is an adult). Usually, the number of drops from the solution that you have to administrate are in relation to the weight and/or age of the animal.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes are prone to having ear mites.
- They will shake their head and scratch their ears excessively if they have them.
- Ask for ear mite solution at your vet clinic.
- Administrate by following the guidelines (usually indicated on the box).
c) Ticks & fleas: Foxes with fleas with excessively scratch their body. If the flea infestation is intense, they might have patches of fur missing from too much scratching, and slight wounds to their body (also from scratching themselves too intensively). Those wounds can get infected, therefore it is extremely important to treat your fox against fleas. Make sure to clean your fox's enclosure everyday during spring and summer (and warm autumn days). Don't let accumulations of dust inside; the enclosure would then become an appropriate living ground for fleas. Ticks can grab a hold of the fox even on a simple walk in the park, or a run in the garden. They can carry illnesses which can be mortal to the fox (and to other pets, as well). Go ask your veterinarian for anti-ticks and anti-fleas solutions that you should administrate following the written guidelines. It's extremely important to protect your fox against fleas and ticks.
To recapitulate:
- Foxes with fleas with excessively scratch themselves, sometimes to the point where they will wound themselves and rip off patches of fur.
- Clean your fox's enclosure everyday and make sure there are no dust accumulations, as that is a great environment for fleas.
- Ask your veterinarian for anti-ticks and anti-fleas solutions that you will administrate following the guidelines.
- Fleas and ticks can transmit diseases, some which can be mortal if not treated.
- It is very important to protect your fox from both ticks and fleas!
d) Wounds & fractures: Accidents can happen, and sometimes more serious wounds, or even fractures, can be the outcome of these accidents. If your fox has a minor wound, apply a solution to clean the wound and prevent infection and then apply a solution helping wounds scar easily and conveniently. If the wound is big and bleeds a lot, take a piece of clothing and apply a big pressure to the wound while someone keeps the fox from moving and struggling. You have to put as much pressure as possible to prevent a massive loss of blood. Rush to the veterinarian as soon as possible! If your fox appears to have a broken limb, follow the same guidelines. With help from others, try to maintain the fox in one position. Don't let it move or struggle at all. On your way to the vet, try to immobilize the broken limb between two pieces of wood/plastic (a solid material that doesn't bend) to prevent the fractured bone from moving and piercing veins or skin.
To recapitulate:
- Minor wound: apply cleaning solution to prevent infection, and scarring solution.
- Massive bleeding wound: apply as much pressure as possible on the wound, with a piece of clothing, to prevent loss of blood. Rush to the vet ASAP. Ask a friend or family member to hold the fox, to prevent is from struggling too much.
- Fracture: keep the fox in the same position, don't let it struggle or move to prevent the fractured bone from moving and piercing veins and/or skin, which would cause more damage. Immobilize the broken limb between 2 pieces of a solid material that doesn't bend (wood, solid plastic, etc.)
e) Intestinal parasites: Foxes should be dewormed starting from 1 month old. Administrate the deworming medicine (in most scenarios, deworming medicine is found under the shape of pills) depending on the guidelines. Portion is variable, depending on weight, and is all written generally on the pills box. Just like any other family companion animal, a fox should be dewormed every month, as they are prone to contract worms from outdoor animals such as skunks, mice (if they kill and eat a mouse or a bird that had worms), raccoons, stray cats and even non-treated pets (dogs) that the fox could meet at the park.
To recapitulate:
- Deworming should start at 1 month old.
- Administrate by following the guidelines, written generally on the box.
- Portion depends on the animal's weight.
- Administrate dewormer once per month to your fox.
f) Plaque and accumulation of tartar: Foxes, like other animals, can develop tartar for several reasons. "Plaque is a gummy substance that forms on the teeth within a few hours after a meal. Within 24 hours, plaque begins to harden by combining with salts that are present in the saliva. As the plaque continues to accumulate and mineralize, it eventually transforms into tartar.There are two ways that tartar harms the teeth and gums. First, tarter forms a rough surface so it serves as a place for bacteria to grow and multiply in the mouth. These bacteria can cause inflammation of the gums (gingivitis), which often results in bleeding. When gingivitis worsens, it leads to periodontal disease, which leads to further inflammation, pain and tooth loss. As tartar builds up along the gum line, it pushes the gums away from the roots of the teeth. As the gums recede, they expose the sensitive, enamel-free part of the tooth which causes pain. Second, the bacteria on the tartar can be absorbed into the blood stream and deposited in various organs, including the heart and the kidneys, causing infection.
After your fox's teeth have been professionally cleaned and polished by your veterinarian, home dental care is needed to help reduce plaque and tartar buildup. You can decrease plaque accumulation by:
- Feeding your fox a veterinary-approved dental diet which slows tartar by mechanical or chemical means. By limiting plaque as it forms, tartar development is greatly diminished.
- Brushing your fox's teeth at least twice weekly. This is one of the most effective ways to remove plaque before it turns into tartar. Do not use human toothpaste as it contains ingredients that can cause an upset stomach when swallowed.
- Using a water additive to reduce the bacterial count in the mouth, resulting in improved breath.
- Offering your fox chew toys and dental treats that are specifically designed to help reduce or remove mild tartar accumulation. Antlers or raw bones are great for helping eliminate plaque and prevent tartar from appearing".
Source and information credits: [x]
In my own experience, what has worked to remove tartar from my fox's teeth was a big amount of patience and a needle. I held my fox and carefully but with strength, scratched off the tartar that was on his teeth. I do not recommend doing that if you don't have a steady hand (you wouldn't want to risk injuring your fox's mouth), if your fox isn't generally very calm and patient by nature and if you don't have the patience to put up with an annoyed fox for 1-2 hours (2h30 in my case).
Billy, just 1 1/2 years old, had a severe case of tartar and unhealthy gums caused by a bad diet and a lack of appropriate care. He lost most of his teeth.
g) Arthritis (osteoarthritis or degenerative joint disease) in older foxes: Your fox may have arthritis if it becomes less active, seems stiff in the morning or even appears to have a limp and/or stops climbing up on couches/running around excitedly as it used to do in its younger years. An overweight fox will have more chances of developing arthritis as it ages therefore make sure your fox keeps on a healthy weight at any age. Not being consistent with nail trimming can eventually lead to arthritis as well. Massages, hot pads, warm baths and whirlpools can help relax the animal's muscles and reduce the pain of arthritis. Those are just some ways to help prevent arthritis in your fox.
If your fox has arthritis, make sure its bed is cozy. You might want to have ramps to ease the access to your bed, the couch or any other place where your fox used to go on a regular basis. Your vet might give you a prescription for Nonsteroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs (NSAIDs). Like all pharmaceutical drugs, NSAIDs have their side effects. Please do a thorough research before deciding whether you want your fox to take them or not. Keep in mind, however, that NSAIDs cannot be given if your fox is already taking prednisone, dexamethasone or any other corticosteroids. There are other prescription drugs that are not NSAIDs which can be given to your fox to relieve its arthritis. Your vet will be able to give you the appropriate recommendations. If your fox has cartilage problems, adding cartilage to its meals will help.
For further information, please visit "Dealing with Arthritis".
h) Kidney failure: I recommend reading everything on this website. It concerns dogs and cats, but is good for foxes too. The information provided is very complete and easy to understand in regards to kidney failure and other kidney diseases.
i) Blindness: Blindness can be caused by injuries, cataracts, a weak genetic background or illnesses. If your fox goes blind for any of those reasons, it is not a reason to euthanize it! The fox can still lead a happy life; putting it down should not even be considered at this point. Adjusting to life with a blind fox may be harder for you than for the fox itself. Make sure to talk to your fox in a reassuring voice. The fox must associate your voice to something positive. Make sure you leave the food and water bowls as well as the litter box/puppy pads in the same place where they usually were. Moving them around will disorientate the fox. You will have to keep your furniture in the place where it was prior to your fox turning blind. No couch, table, TV, etc. being moved from one place to another! If you have stairs, try blocking the access to them to prevent your fox from falling down and injuring itself.
Cataracts can be surgically removed, depending on the circumstances. However, simply because they can be removed doesn't mean they necessarily should; having a cataract usually doesn't significantly interfere with the animal's vision. They are usually inherited but can be caused by diabetes, a rupture of the lens capsule, an infection, old age and an inappropriate diet, among others. Antioxidants can help foxes that are caught with cataracts. Ask your vet about what eye-specific antioxidant to give your fox. For more information, please visit this great source of pet eye health information.
j) Hip dysplasia: This website is a wonderful resource for all you need to know regarding hip dysplasia: prevention methods, symptoms, what can be done, etc. It is for dogs but symptoms, prevention methods and all else is useful and can be applied to foxes too.
Controversial veterinary procedures.
a) Defanging: Defanging is the veterinary procedure which consists of removing an animal's lower and upper fangs, mostly done to prevent them of biting you. While it can be useful for the sole and only reason of not risking to be bitten by an animal, it is not very useful for other things, and is even a handicap for the animal itself, which is why it is not recommended to do this procedure, illegal and considered to be mutilation in several places. The fox will be deprived of his fangs, will have considerably more difficulty to eat, especially right after the surgery, and won't be able to playfully bite dogs, cats or other foxes anymore, which is the usual way foxes play with each other or other animals. Pet foxes are not aggressive animals that will constantly and viciously attack humans; therefore defanging isn't a necessary surgery. An exotic animal owner should establish a trust-based relationship with its exotic animal companion, in this case, with foxes. If the animal is treated well and trusts you, it will feel no need to attack you and/or bite you hard enough to cause any major injuries whatsoever. When they play, foxes do nip on fingers and try to play-bite, which may pierce through the skin at times since their fangs are sharp enough to do so. However, there are ways to dissuade that type of behavior which is not aggressive, just a demonstration of an interest to play with you. Defanging should never be a first option, in any case, and if properly raised, a fox should not have any reason to be aggressive and try to bite you or others.
To recapitulate:
- Defanging is painful, even weeks after the surgery, if not months.
- Defanging: removing lower and upper fangs.
- Animal will have difficulty eating solid food, since fangs are used to grab it and tore it apart.
- Animal won't be able to playfully bite other animals.
- Exotics are not vicious if they are raised with love and respect. No exotic will bite if it is understood and well treated. Therefore, defanging is not necessary.
- Foxes do nip and play-bite while playing, but there are ways to discourage that type of non-aggressive behavior in a pacific way.
- Defanging is not and should never be a first option, regardless of the situation.
If one decides to adopt an exotic animal, he or she should be aware that these are no domestic animals, and that they have different reactions. They require a lot more patience, discipline and understanding of their general behavior than dogs or cats, and need to be raised by a trustworthy, loving and respectful person.
b) Declawing: Declawing is the veterinary procedure which, unlike most think, consists of removing an animal's third phalanx, usually done to prevent an animal from scratching you. It is a digital amputation, a mutilation, basically. While it can be useful for the sole and only reason of not risking to be scratched by an animal, it is not very useful for other things, and is even a handicap for the animal itself, which is why it is not recommended to do this procedure, illegal and considered to be mutilation in several places. The fox will be deprived of a part of his fingers, will have considerably more difficulty to walk in the weeks following the surgery, run around in general, jump and won't be able to climb anymore, nor dig, which is a natural habit of foxes. Depriving a fox of its habit to dig by removing its claws is one of the cruelest things that can be done to an animal. Pet foxes are not aggressive animals that will constantly and viciously attack humans; therefore declawing isn't a necessary surgery, as the fox will never try to scratch you. Unlike cats, foxes never use their claws for self-defense. An exotic animal owner should establish a trust-based relationship with its exotic animal companion, in this case, with foxes. If the animal is treated well and trusts you, it will feel no need to attack you and/or scratch you hard enough to cause any major injuries whatsoever. When being held, foxes try to find a better grip and in most cases, do, not on purpose though, scratch the one who's holding them. However, declawing isn't the option: soft caps for nails or nail trimming is the option.
To recapitulate:
- Declawing: removing the third phalanx of an animal's paws.
- Animal will have difficulty walking, jumping and even standing up for a few weeks, but the pain will last for months.
- Exotics like foxes don't use their nails to scratch in self-defense or for aggression. They will only scratch when climbing on you or while being held.
- Foxes are born diggers. Declawing a fox means the fox won't ever be able to express its natural behavior of digging ever again, which is cruelty.
- If accidental scratches are the problem, use soft paws (nail caps) or trim the fox's nails more often.
c) Descenting: Descenting, also called deglanding, is the veterinary procedure which consists of removing the scent gland in foxes, known as the ''violet gland''. This procedure is commonly done with pet skunks and pet ferrets, to prevent them from spreading the particularly noticeable strong musky smell. This procedure is not commonly done in foxes; however, it has been done previously in a small population of fur farmed foxes. The violet gland is located at the base of the fox's tail, and can be noticed sometimes by a yellow or transparent swelling. There is no real necessity of removing the gland; foxes only emit their typical musky smell when they are scared, extremely stressed or too excited. As an average, a fox would release the smell about 4-5 times per year. The smell is nowhere near as strong as a skunk's smell, but it is still strong. Other than that, foxes don't smell. Their urine does smell bad, but for that, nothing can be done, it's just natural.
Descenting a fox should only be done by a certified veterinarian who has experience with foxes in general, and descenting skunks or/and ferrets. It is a simple but complex surgery at the same time. The fox would experience a few weeks of pain afterwards, but not more than 2-3 weeks. It is said that descenting affects a fox's health and destroys the hormonal balance in the fox's organism. Those sayings have not been proved whatsoever; they are unjustified. Foxes have been descented on a fur farm, and they have lived normal lives, and continued being healthy afterwards. However, deglanding a fox is still unnecessary: if you provide a stress-free, comforting and respectful environment to your fox and don't try to purposely scare it, chances are you will rarely or never experience the gland smell. Foxes also have dozens of glands, located all over their bodies (muzzle, feet, toe pads, ears, tip of tail, base of tail) so there is no real way to truly degland a fox - and if all those glands were to be removed, the fox would then seriously be facing major health issues.
To recapitulate:
- Descenting ''deglanding'': removing the scent gland from an animal's rear end.
- Commonly done with skunks and ferrets; uncommon with foxes as it is a harder procedure.
- A small population has been descented on a fur farm, as a result of an experiment.
- Violet gland (scent gland) is located at the tail's base.
- Can be, sometimes, noticed by a yellow or transparent swelling (but not often!)
- Fox only produce musky smell if very stressed, very excited or very scared.
- Removing a fox's gland is said to affect their health and hormonal balance. Those ''facts'' have never been backed up with proof.
- The population of foxes that have been descented remained healthy afterwards.
- Healing and loss of pain takes 2-3 weeks on average.
- Can be done, but it's unnecessary: if owner provides a stress-free and respectful environment, the fox shouldn't have a reason to release the smell frequently.
If your fox has arthritis, make sure its bed is cozy. You might want to have ramps to ease the access to your bed, the couch or any other place where your fox used to go on a regular basis. Your vet might give you a prescription for Nonsteroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs (NSAIDs). Like all pharmaceutical drugs, NSAIDs have their side effects. Please do a thorough research before deciding whether you want your fox to take them or not. Keep in mind, however, that NSAIDs cannot be given if your fox is already taking prednisone, dexamethasone or any other corticosteroids. There are other prescription drugs that are not NSAIDs which can be given to your fox to relieve its arthritis. Your vet will be able to give you the appropriate recommendations. If your fox has cartilage problems, adding cartilage to its meals will help.
For further information, please visit "Dealing with Arthritis".
h) Kidney failure: I recommend reading everything on this website. It concerns dogs and cats, but is good for foxes too. The information provided is very complete and easy to understand in regards to kidney failure and other kidney diseases.
i) Blindness: Blindness can be caused by injuries, cataracts, a weak genetic background or illnesses. If your fox goes blind for any of those reasons, it is not a reason to euthanize it! The fox can still lead a happy life; putting it down should not even be considered at this point. Adjusting to life with a blind fox may be harder for you than for the fox itself. Make sure to talk to your fox in a reassuring voice. The fox must associate your voice to something positive. Make sure you leave the food and water bowls as well as the litter box/puppy pads in the same place where they usually were. Moving them around will disorientate the fox. You will have to keep your furniture in the place where it was prior to your fox turning blind. No couch, table, TV, etc. being moved from one place to another! If you have stairs, try blocking the access to them to prevent your fox from falling down and injuring itself.
Cataracts can be surgically removed, depending on the circumstances. However, simply because they can be removed doesn't mean they necessarily should; having a cataract usually doesn't significantly interfere with the animal's vision. They are usually inherited but can be caused by diabetes, a rupture of the lens capsule, an infection, old age and an inappropriate diet, among others. Antioxidants can help foxes that are caught with cataracts. Ask your vet about what eye-specific antioxidant to give your fox. For more information, please visit this great source of pet eye health information.
j) Hip dysplasia: This website is a wonderful resource for all you need to know regarding hip dysplasia: prevention methods, symptoms, what can be done, etc. It is for dogs but symptoms, prevention methods and all else is useful and can be applied to foxes too.
Controversial veterinary procedures.
a) Defanging: Defanging is the veterinary procedure which consists of removing an animal's lower and upper fangs, mostly done to prevent them of biting you. While it can be useful for the sole and only reason of not risking to be bitten by an animal, it is not very useful for other things, and is even a handicap for the animal itself, which is why it is not recommended to do this procedure, illegal and considered to be mutilation in several places. The fox will be deprived of his fangs, will have considerably more difficulty to eat, especially right after the surgery, and won't be able to playfully bite dogs, cats or other foxes anymore, which is the usual way foxes play with each other or other animals. Pet foxes are not aggressive animals that will constantly and viciously attack humans; therefore defanging isn't a necessary surgery. An exotic animal owner should establish a trust-based relationship with its exotic animal companion, in this case, with foxes. If the animal is treated well and trusts you, it will feel no need to attack you and/or bite you hard enough to cause any major injuries whatsoever. When they play, foxes do nip on fingers and try to play-bite, which may pierce through the skin at times since their fangs are sharp enough to do so. However, there are ways to dissuade that type of behavior which is not aggressive, just a demonstration of an interest to play with you. Defanging should never be a first option, in any case, and if properly raised, a fox should not have any reason to be aggressive and try to bite you or others.
To recapitulate:
- Defanging is painful, even weeks after the surgery, if not months.
- Defanging: removing lower and upper fangs.
- Animal will have difficulty eating solid food, since fangs are used to grab it and tore it apart.
- Animal won't be able to playfully bite other animals.
- Exotics are not vicious if they are raised with love and respect. No exotic will bite if it is understood and well treated. Therefore, defanging is not necessary.
- Foxes do nip and play-bite while playing, but there are ways to discourage that type of non-aggressive behavior in a pacific way.
- Defanging is not and should never be a first option, regardless of the situation.
If one decides to adopt an exotic animal, he or she should be aware that these are no domestic animals, and that they have different reactions. They require a lot more patience, discipline and understanding of their general behavior than dogs or cats, and need to be raised by a trustworthy, loving and respectful person.
b) Declawing: Declawing is the veterinary procedure which, unlike most think, consists of removing an animal's third phalanx, usually done to prevent an animal from scratching you. It is a digital amputation, a mutilation, basically. While it can be useful for the sole and only reason of not risking to be scratched by an animal, it is not very useful for other things, and is even a handicap for the animal itself, which is why it is not recommended to do this procedure, illegal and considered to be mutilation in several places. The fox will be deprived of a part of his fingers, will have considerably more difficulty to walk in the weeks following the surgery, run around in general, jump and won't be able to climb anymore, nor dig, which is a natural habit of foxes. Depriving a fox of its habit to dig by removing its claws is one of the cruelest things that can be done to an animal. Pet foxes are not aggressive animals that will constantly and viciously attack humans; therefore declawing isn't a necessary surgery, as the fox will never try to scratch you. Unlike cats, foxes never use their claws for self-defense. An exotic animal owner should establish a trust-based relationship with its exotic animal companion, in this case, with foxes. If the animal is treated well and trusts you, it will feel no need to attack you and/or scratch you hard enough to cause any major injuries whatsoever. When being held, foxes try to find a better grip and in most cases, do, not on purpose though, scratch the one who's holding them. However, declawing isn't the option: soft caps for nails or nail trimming is the option.
To recapitulate:
- Declawing: removing the third phalanx of an animal's paws.
- Animal will have difficulty walking, jumping and even standing up for a few weeks, but the pain will last for months.
- Exotics like foxes don't use their nails to scratch in self-defense or for aggression. They will only scratch when climbing on you or while being held.
- Foxes are born diggers. Declawing a fox means the fox won't ever be able to express its natural behavior of digging ever again, which is cruelty.
- If accidental scratches are the problem, use soft paws (nail caps) or trim the fox's nails more often.
c) Descenting: Descenting, also called deglanding, is the veterinary procedure which consists of removing the scent gland in foxes, known as the ''violet gland''. This procedure is commonly done with pet skunks and pet ferrets, to prevent them from spreading the particularly noticeable strong musky smell. This procedure is not commonly done in foxes; however, it has been done previously in a small population of fur farmed foxes. The violet gland is located at the base of the fox's tail, and can be noticed sometimes by a yellow or transparent swelling. There is no real necessity of removing the gland; foxes only emit their typical musky smell when they are scared, extremely stressed or too excited. As an average, a fox would release the smell about 4-5 times per year. The smell is nowhere near as strong as a skunk's smell, but it is still strong. Other than that, foxes don't smell. Their urine does smell bad, but for that, nothing can be done, it's just natural.
Descenting a fox should only be done by a certified veterinarian who has experience with foxes in general, and descenting skunks or/and ferrets. It is a simple but complex surgery at the same time. The fox would experience a few weeks of pain afterwards, but not more than 2-3 weeks. It is said that descenting affects a fox's health and destroys the hormonal balance in the fox's organism. Those sayings have not been proved whatsoever; they are unjustified. Foxes have been descented on a fur farm, and they have lived normal lives, and continued being healthy afterwards. However, deglanding a fox is still unnecessary: if you provide a stress-free, comforting and respectful environment to your fox and don't try to purposely scare it, chances are you will rarely or never experience the gland smell. Foxes also have dozens of glands, located all over their bodies (muzzle, feet, toe pads, ears, tip of tail, base of tail) so there is no real way to truly degland a fox - and if all those glands were to be removed, the fox would then seriously be facing major health issues.
To recapitulate:
- Descenting ''deglanding'': removing the scent gland from an animal's rear end.
- Commonly done with skunks and ferrets; uncommon with foxes as it is a harder procedure.
- A small population has been descented on a fur farm, as a result of an experiment.
- Violet gland (scent gland) is located at the tail's base.
- Can be, sometimes, noticed by a yellow or transparent swelling (but not often!)
- Fox only produce musky smell if very stressed, very excited or very scared.
- Removing a fox's gland is said to affect their health and hormonal balance. Those ''facts'' have never been backed up with proof.
- The population of foxes that have been descented remained healthy afterwards.
- Healing and loss of pain takes 2-3 weeks on average.
- Can be done, but it's unnecessary: if owner provides a stress-free and respectful environment, the fox shouldn't have a reason to release the smell frequently.
What to do if your fox escapes? If your fox escapes or is set free, keep your calm and call as soon as possible your local animal shelters, the police, your town's animal control and notify them that your fox is loose. Give them a description of your fox, your number, your address and what else they may ask for. Once that is done, go warn your neighbours and ask them to call you if they see your fox. Go print lost pet posters (make sure to include a picture of your fox on them as well as a description of your fox and contact information). Place those posters all over town where it is permitted; in shopping malls, groceries stores, bus waiting cabins, on trees, etc.
You may also want to rent and set up live traps in your backyard/in neighbours' backyards where your fox has been seen, if you have their permission, of course. Leave a very smelly food in the trap (can of fish, cooked barbecue chicken, ...) and something that belongs to you and has your scent on it. Don't lose hope; there have been cases where foxes went missing for weeks and were finally found, well alive!
If your fox gets lost in the middle of the woods in a very non-populated area (as it happened to me in December 2014 after the leash snapped) rent live traps as soon as possible and set them around the area where your fox was last seen. Your fox will be hungry and confused, and will most likely approach man-made habitations (when my fox got lost, we followed his tracks in the snow to find him and they lead us to two hunting cabins - there were fox tracks from my boy all over the snow surrounding those cabins). Keep in mind that foxes can travel up to 10 km a day, but when they're lost, they tend to stay in 2-3 mile area from where they got loose.
Most of all, do not lose hope. If your fox doesn't already have those things, getting a collar with tags would be something to heavily consider doing. Make sure you put your contact information on the tags - if your fox is caught or approaches a stranger who is able to see the phone number on the tag, your chances of recovering your lost fox are already much higher.
One last idea would be to get a tracker for your fox. There are several GPS tracking devices for pets - either collars or small devices that can be attached to the animal's collar. Most come with another device where you can see where your animal is in the event that it gets lost (it shows a moving dot), others can be directly connected to your SmartPhone and allow you to easily track your pet and recover it.
You may also want to rent and set up live traps in your backyard/in neighbours' backyards where your fox has been seen, if you have their permission, of course. Leave a very smelly food in the trap (can of fish, cooked barbecue chicken, ...) and something that belongs to you and has your scent on it. Don't lose hope; there have been cases where foxes went missing for weeks and were finally found, well alive!
If your fox gets lost in the middle of the woods in a very non-populated area (as it happened to me in December 2014 after the leash snapped) rent live traps as soon as possible and set them around the area where your fox was last seen. Your fox will be hungry and confused, and will most likely approach man-made habitations (when my fox got lost, we followed his tracks in the snow to find him and they lead us to two hunting cabins - there were fox tracks from my boy all over the snow surrounding those cabins). Keep in mind that foxes can travel up to 10 km a day, but when they're lost, they tend to stay in 2-3 mile area from where they got loose.
Most of all, do not lose hope. If your fox doesn't already have those things, getting a collar with tags would be something to heavily consider doing. Make sure you put your contact information on the tags - if your fox is caught or approaches a stranger who is able to see the phone number on the tag, your chances of recovering your lost fox are already much higher.
One last idea would be to get a tracker for your fox. There are several GPS tracking devices for pets - either collars or small devices that can be attached to the animal's collar. Most come with another device where you can see where your animal is in the event that it gets lost (it shows a moving dot), others can be directly connected to your SmartPhone and allow you to easily track your pet and recover it.
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